Jayson Munro
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Waterborne is a bitch to clean,most guys use a disposable cup system like sata rps or 3mpps.Easier to clean is why to use a plastic pot for waterborne vs metal.Buy one of each or get a disposable cup system.Glad you got your needs figured out,good luck.
Use the plastic cup or sata rps cups for waterborne and the metal cup for everything else.Check to make sure the fluid tip size you get is the right one for the product you are using.HVLP will be better for waterborne and use the rp for clear.Don’t use the same gun for waterborne and clear unless you can make it absolutely spotless.
Check your TDS FIRST,not all clears are the same!! Usually you can reapply fresh clear over unsanded clear within 12-24hrs but most times some kind of sanding or repair is required.Your mileage will vary…..
Where are you located?Any sata dealer can get you the kit,sata keeps parts available for many older guns.As long as the needle,fluid tip and air cap are in good shape all you need are the teflon seals and an air distribution riing which will cost about $50.Go to satas website and they can hook you up with a dealer.If in western canada eurotech sprayproducts in calgary is the place.
Dino is spot on and gave great advice :cheers I would like to add that basf and spies( among others) say you can use ready to spray clear that is over reduced by 100-150% as a wetbed for blending.If memory serves me right Im pretty sure you didn’t have to wait very long before adding base.I have been under the gun a few times dealing with a job that has to go and have spotted in base while clearing and it has worked fine.I would not suggest this at all,only in severe circumstances but you need to have experience to pull it off.I would not even dream of trying this with waterborne,it will kick you in the balls pronto :stoned
Unfortunately those are the kinds of problems that happen with cheap materials.Using lighter coats at first is your only option( besides getting better products),if you put it on heavy it will wrinkle.good luck
So the lifting happens all the time?What is your substrate?What kind of primer are you using lacquer or 2k urethane?If your working on old cars it is best to strip to bare metal to avoid reactions,if this is not possible a coat of epoxy primer will help to keep old paint work stable.We need more info to help…..
Sure, blending solvent is what I mean just a different term.Polishing should work fine,nice car and color,what materials did you use?Any before pics?Did it need lots of metal work?
Welcome to the site :cheers Door jambs can be a pain in the ass but if the owner doesn’t specify no mask lines I just hard line them about 1/8 to 1/4 inch into the jamb.You can also use foam tape but sealer always goes further than base and clear and your left with a visible color line.3m Transition tape works ok if you have lots of time,you need to run 2 rows if using sealer and remove one row after sealer,real pain IMO.
You are on the right track,try some 1200-1500 and polish with a 3 inch wool pad,should get you close,if not you can spot in the jamb with a touch up gun and burn in the clear or cheat and hard line it,up to you depending on what the job warrants.Good luck and post some pics,once again :welcGeez if your boss won’t spring the $30 for a charcoal mask from the supplier he obviously doesn’t care about your well being.The charcoals will last for about 8hrs of spry time and they should be sealed when not in use.Technically you should remove the pre filters before storage as the uncured paint can cause them to expire quicker.I change my charcoals once a week but there is hardly any over spray in our booth.Hope your feeling better :cheers
MMMMMMM Supa pimp :stoned
Tech is in california so Im not sure what the laws are there so can’t comment.My boss has supplied fresh air masks but our booths move so much air there is no over spray so we just use 3m masks.I would be surprised if its NOT mandatory,all it would take is one claim to WCB or someone getting sick to completely screw over the shops ins/wcb etc.
Holy Christ Andy your my hero :cheers Thats a shitpile of cars man :stoned :stoned
The guy is an automotive painter,that being said should be plenty to bring to the table.ALL of eastwoods products are rebranded(paint is kirker,bottom end of the spectrum no color match or longevity) that cost more than what can be bought local.If you want to use cheap paint go ahead but don’t expect great results or anything that will last.IMO if you are going to go to all that work to put on poor quality materials why bother.Go to your local jobber and talk to a knowledgeable paint person about what you need and he will set you up,when it comes to paint and body you get what you pay for.
I have been using it for 5 years after 21 years of spraying solvent.If you follow the tech sheet for solvent and apply it properly you will wait 10-15 mins PER coat and wait 15-30 mins after the last coat before clear.Waterborne is just the opposite,depending on the size of the job it can be anywhere from 30 secs to minutes before you can apply your next coat and 15mins before clear.With waterborne you don’t need to worry about trapping solvents and getting dieback issues on a large job,it can happen in a production environment.IMO the jobs look better and stay glossy longer.