Jayson Munro
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One thing I can add is to use masking paper on wheels vs dedicated wheel covers that just get covered in overspray and crud that can blow into your paint.
[URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/SSPX0032_zps4a9ca9e5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0032_zps4a9ca9e5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]The wheel gets masked then I run another piece of 18″around the wheel well liner and mask it to the wheel,this will help keep dirt out.Great ideas guys lets keep them coming :cheers
Every 2 :cens weeks 6 gallons of fresh thinner is changed out.The waterborne gun cleaner is ceaned once a week 😉
Use slow reducer and flick your arm and wrist like you are trying to start a lawnmower :rofl Sounds dumb but it works…..If your reducer is too fast it will dry in the air before it hits the surface.
I am the same way,after each use I break it down and give it a good cleaning.We have a waterborne gunwasher for the WB guns but use the thinner tank with a brush and squeeze bottle with fresh gunwash.Satas can take it some other guns aren’t as tough and you need to be careful.I am not a big fan of the guys who only clean them once a week cuz it takes too much time.I have timed myself and it takes about 90 secs to clean start to finish.So why take a chance?
[URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/023.jpg.html][IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/023.jpg[/IMG][/URL]I am the same way,after each use I break it down and give it a good cleaning.We have a waterborne gunwasher for the WB guns but use the thinner tank with a brush and squeeze bottle with fresh gunwash.Satas can take it some other guns aren’t as tough and you need to be careful.I am not a big fan of the guys who only clean them once a week cuz it takes too much time.I have timed myself and it takes about 90 secs to clean start to finish.
[URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/023.jpg.html][IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/023.jpg[/IMG][/URL]I wouldn’t use it over solvent,you would be better off with lesonal proair.No point in using a low voc air dry clear if you don’t have to IMO.
You can do what you want but I can assure you akzo has done no testing of energy pro or superior 250 over solvent to see if it will last.I have been told numerous times by many tech guys, reps,training center etc not to do it and they will not warranty it.I sure wouldn’t want to run the risk of using it in a production shop and have 100 jobs come back with delam problems that have to be fixed for free.Energy pro will die off , we have looked at many jobs that were a year old they didn’t look good.Just my opinion take it or leave it :cheers
What are you using it on autobase plus?
I have done many old cars that way,if done right they look better than a cut n buff IMO.I don’t follow the flow coat rules,I like to use 2 nice wet coats of clear.Black single stage also looks very nice when its done that way(wet sand with 600 and 2 fat coats of clear) :cheers
IMO its not a very good clear,we used it for one year and got rid of it,for the cost of it you may as well use superior 250.I am not sure if it is approved over solvent now but it was a waterborne only clear.The best way to spray it is 2 medium coats with no flash,obviously when it is cold you have to be careful and allow some flash time.We found it was good for about 3-4 panels max,you would have a tough time doing a complete with it.We had lots of dieback problems so it just wasn’t worth it for us to continue using it 😡
IMO distance and speed make a huge difference,the video explained it very well.The sweet spot for atomization with an rp is 4-5 inches.The further away you are and slower you go you are increasing how much material is going on the surface.In short you are adding to the texture/orange peel of the surface.I don’t like a 1.3 at all with superior,it over atomizes the material and at the pressure you are sprayng is not helping the end result.For collision jobs matching the factory texture is all you need,but on a complete you want it as smooth as possible.If you are open to trying something new cut your distance in half and increase your speed ,sikkens clears have always worked better close and fast.
Reducer selection plays a big part in the equation as well.When using 3 pack if I did a front end or 3 side panels or more I would use slow,the clear will be smoother vs spot and panel.I call this slowing down to speed up(a slower clear goes on nicer and dries faster as its a thinner coat vs a faster mix) :stoned
I have sprayed sikkens superior 250 for 5 years(its on my chevelle in my avatar too) and find it is very easy to lay down nice(the 2pack is even easier).With a 4000rp I use a 1.4 28-30psi,wide open fan and fluid 4-5 inches from the surface.My first coat is more of a medium quick pace but l lay down more material than a fast closed coat or 1/2coat.My second coat is still at a close distance but I am a little slower so I can put on a nice full wet coat.I get a nicer smoother finish with 2 medium coats or 1 medium/1 full wet coat vs the coat and a half technique.Thats my 2 cents….
You could try to switch to a finer strainer 125micron vs regular 190micron and use 2-3 strainers at a time to get rid of the trash.Are you in a cold climate?It could be possible that some of the toners or binders could have been frozen in transport to your shop.
Welcome Henry,glad you made it over :cheers
A couple things you could try is to see if you can get one man per vehicle to stop the socializing.The other is to talk to your boss about implementing some kind of bonus program per x number of hrs flagged.In our shop we have 2 booths/2 painters and all 16 bodymen prep(sand prime block etc) their jobs.When the work comes to us all we have to do is scuff our blend panels mask and shoot.