Jayson Munro
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[quote=”Ben” post=33360][quote=”Nexson” post=33357]Thanks jay. I am currently using the fine line around the edges works really well if you put it down for good after a couple tries otherwise I notice it likes to walk in a little around the tight edges. I will look into the tape you suggested. Not too concerned with the price point.[/quote]
Which fine line are you using? What size (width) of fine line?
One trick that may help, just before you put your tape onto the part, run your finger over the sticky side quickly to slightly dull the adhesive. This will prevent transfer onto the part.[/quote]
But wouldn’t that make the corners more prone to lifting :stoned
The new 3m purple fine line corners really well,might want to try that.If price is not a big deal just use a good automotive tape.You could also give the edge a quick scuff after its unmasked before clear with some 400-600 foam backed paper like norton .
Looks good nex,try some fineline followed by some god automotive masking tape.American blue is pretty good and cheap.
Spray poly absolutely has its advantages,especially on restos or panels that are really rough.I would not use it for my second round of primer,too much work.
I still don’t see the point,I mean why not use urethane 2k after slicksand?I’m sure its counter productive to use slicksand for your second round of primer,I can’t imagine how painful and slow it would be to wet block with 400-600.Just think of the time you could save wetsanding a nice urethane 2k primer with 400,sealing and painting,but to each there own.By the way 220 -400/600 is a pretty big jump…..I am well aware of no time frame on a resto but why in the hell would you want to work harder than you have too :unsure:
[quote=”gtome” post=33336]We base right on the Slick Sand. No troubles so far.[/quote]
Sometimes it can take years for trouble to show up,just because you haven’t seen or heard of any problems doesn’t mean that its not happening.I sure hope you aren’t wetsanding your poly before you base over it :SI don’t see the point of using slicksand all the way thru on a resto,seems counter productive to me.I can see using it on a rough body,blocking it with 120 and repriming with 2k.
Well that sounds interesting,maybe solvent will make a comeback up here in canuckville.For 2-3 panel jobs with autowave out flashtimes are in the 2-3min range per coat,completes take longer.We have no real special equipment,a couple of venturi blowers on stands and our down draft booth moves 12,000-14,700cfm with a good airmakeup unit in the winter.Humidity in my area is pretty dry,usually in the 20-40% range so that helps.
So could you tell us if it is only meant for 2-3 panel jobs?Can you spray a complete with it?….. or is it like all the other low voc solvent base coat systems that are just too damn fast and leave you with a desert storm sandy finish 😛 Believe it or not my flash times with autowave are very similar for the size of jobs that you mentioned.
:welc to the site :cheers
Ok you guys here is the scoop,any company that gets bought out and moved to china the quality goes right in the toilet (peterson vice grips come to mind,not anywhere near what they used to be)For people who have never used a sata,try one the quality will speak for itself.If you are a hobbiest get a tekna or prolite,it will last you for many trouble free years.If you paint 3 cars an up everyday get a sata,I have run my satas hard and have a couple that are close to 15 years old and they spray like brand new.You pay a price for a good tool that works every time you pick it up and consistency/reliability is worth it to me.Iwatas are a great spraying gun but are nowhere near as tough as a sata.I can guarantee the chinese gun will crap out in a matter of time,there is no chinese product made to last the test of time.
A good spray gun does not make the painter but it will help eliminate variables and improve consistency.Now if I use a finishline to clear a hood I can get a great finish but I would have had to work harder to get the desired result instead of doing it the easy way and using my RP.
IMO I think baking bumpers is a wives tale,most new bumpers are using a waterborne release agent so I have been told.I have done everything by the book and even baked a few and in the end some of them just peel :cens
Very cool cars thanks for posting :cheers
When you have lots of experience with one product you know what you can get away with(your boss)with out issues.Depending on what the temp was you coud try half extra slow /half slow and maybe give it an extra 10 mins before clear.On your last coat you could increase your distance a couple of inches but don’t put it on dry.
We need more info,what temp reducer are you using?spray gun, pressure sprayed at,using a wetbed for your blend.How long are you waiting before clear?
Most times too fast of a reducer is to blame,dropping your pressure a few psi will help on a belnd as well.Sometimes clearing too soo with some products can cause the metallics to shift around.Once we have more info maybe we can help :cheersLeave the butcher advice for “that other site” 😡