Jayson Munro
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We have one of these for each booth http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/Division/DeVilbiss/AirControlandFiltration/DAD500%E2%84%A2.aspx
Sharpe, sata,also make them.What kind of filters?Intake, exhaust etc
A few thoughts,are you using 125 micron filters?You might try adding more waterborne reducer,lower your pressure a bit,and put it on a little wetter.Not all waterbornes are the same but this might help.Has it been hot and dry where you are?A 1.5 has helped in my tekna when its over 80F
Well thats a bummer,I don’t really see the point of it then.
Your not alone,many shops are in the same boat with the shortage of skilled techs.It really depends where you are,every area is different with their salary and door rates.
Welcome to the site Adam :spraywelc:
Nick I only do a sand and reclear on restos or something high end like a complete on a lexus or mercedes.For the regular collision jobs 2 coats of superior is all that is needed and then its still too shiny.
Reckless spare us the brand loyalty bull shit,if you don’t like sata and the only guns that work for you are iwatas and platinums all the power too ya,99% of the guys here can get a great job with whatever high end gun they pick up.
I also use autowave and superior 250.Its the same as any other clear,sand it with 600-800 wet or with an orbital plus interface pad apply 2 more coats of clear.I have done it many times in the past with 250 with great results.
You are getting a gritty dusty surface by spraying too dry and the use of too fast of a reducer.It is difficult to do a blend and maintain metallic control with a fast reducer due to the paint drying in the air and hitting the surface felling like sand paper or a cats tounge.This is where skill comes into play and its very difficult to “teach” yourself how to do it.Once again I would stay away form the reduced clear for a wetbed until you have more experience or you will end up with runs if not done properly :blink:
Check with your paint supplier for the system that you are using,they should have something.Basically its just clear base coat,nothing special.You can use clear that is ready to spray and further reduce it by 100%-150% then apply one thin coat.I am hesitant to suggest it to someone with little experience as it could cause you more trouble.If you do good prep work,use a slow reducer,good spray technique,you really don’t need a wet bed.
The proper term for the technique he is doing is called a “wet bed blend”, orientation coat is exactly what Ben was refering too which is lowering your pressure increasing your distance to even out metallics and pearls also known as a drop coat.Not all paint systems require it.
Sounds promising but a blend on a side panel or the middle of a hood would be a better test,keep us posted.Where abouts are you?
Welcome to the site :cheers
Cool thanks for the heads up,I thought blends and metallic control would be an issue with low voc solvent.When they get somethig that doesn’t flash to fast it sure sounds promising.
this should be interesting :stoned
So how did you come to this conclusion? I just have to ask what kind of work and what kind of materials do you use?