Jayson Munro
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Not sure how cold it gets where you are but up here you need an air make up to keep a consistent temp(70-75)A cross flow will work fine as long as it has decent airflow(10,000cfm) and some heat.You can get away with portable blowers,thats all we have and we can still have good production.You will pay a little more for materials and in non perfect environment it could slow up production a bit.Honestly I think you would be better off switching to lesonal sb,decent color match and it will work for your environment,just my 2 cents.
I haven’t sprayed PPG envirobase but I have herad it is a great system.But I have to ask if you are happy with sikkens why wouldn’t you look at autowave???
Cool work Scott :rock I can only dream of having the patience and talent to do that :cheers
Looks great Dag :cheers
Nice job Jack and thanks for posting,I really enjoyed looking at the pics :cheers
Welcome to the site :cheers :cheers
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=32056]at the first sign of any reactions i add a small peercentage of 2K activator to my base[/quote]
Once you have “signs” of a reaction its already to late.Activating your base is a good idea and can’t hurt in this situation but the reducer is what will cause the lacquer to reflow/wrinkle.Like was mentioned before epoxy mixed as a sealer(thinner viscosity), sikkens basefix,or over reduced clear(100-150%)to put down as a barrier coat to prevent wrinkling is the best choice.Over reduced clearcoat will work as a wetbed for blending or to help avoid reactions,one quick light coat with some flash time and go right to base.Welcome to the site and don’t be shy….ask away :cheers
Epoxy mixed as a sealer would be my choice.Not really sure I understand where your cut off point is but it would be better to stay about an 1/8 inch away from the edge of the jamb to avoid the outside of the car.
I would put money on your first coat skinning over before solvent can gas out,then hammering on a second coat will make it worse.In a down draft booth you should never use a speed clear or the fastest mix possible on a horizontal surface,it will always bite you in the ass with solvent pop or dieback.Not many painters realize this but I find it easier to slow down my hardeners and reducers in order to “speed up”For example if I do a side or a front end I will always use slow everything and maybe a bit of accelerator to speed up recoat times.A slower mix will result in a wetter thinner coat that will flash/cure faster than a turbo mix.If I bake it I can move it in 35 mins or if Im in a hurry I can unmask and move in 20 mins of air dry with the booth running.Maybe give it a try…..
Also with some speed clears you are better off doing 2 medium wet coats back to back with no flash time,this will eliminate the risk of your clear skinning over…..but you have to be careful :stoned
I really haven’t heard anything good about it myself,lots of delam,dieback,color match issues :blink: Apparently its not as fast as what they say,it needs more flash time and can skin over like ben mentioned.
If you take a 3m 3 inch brown cookie or clean and strip disk and remove the ecoat on the corner it will help the edge fold over easier.Also when you are finished folding the edge over take a da(old knuckle duster sander)in the lock mode and use a crosshatch pattern you can metal finish the edge for a perfect filler free job.I have found the old proto 1426 body hammer to be the best door skin hammer.I also agree with what Mo said 😉 http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/myhoney077.jpg
Nice job Ben,looks like it turned out great under the circumstances.Looks like your getting settled into the new shop too.Thanks for sharing :rock
It is a pretty decent base coat,easy to spray, user friendly etc.Color match can will leave something to be desired compared to what you are using now unfortunately.As long as you have decent tinting skills you will be able to make it work just fine 😉
If you seal it you will be fine,personaly I wouldn’t base over red scotchbrite.
