Jayson Munro
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Ya, Bondo didnt like it when you said sealer is a band-aid for poor prep, so he messed with your settings :whistle: :rofl :rofl[/quote]
Silly “probase” :deadhorse :deadhorse :rofl :rofl :rofl :roflThe only setback I could think of is the odd color that might need and extra coat.When you go to mix a color on your computer it will give you the suggested sealer color(shade of gray) to help with coverage,if you aren’t going to seal just make your primer the right shade and you will be fine.Pretty decent waterborne or solvent system and the same colormatch as sikkens.
Why in the fuk would you jamb door handles,put them in,sand and mask around them???Do you brush your teeth thru your ass too??Geebus you do it strange in the hills :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
Do you mean the sata jet 90-2?The jet 90-2 is a budget reduced pressure gun not to be confused with the old sata jet 90 conventional gun,it came out around 2004 or so.The 90-2 could be used for sealer,base,clear,or single stage.
What other choices do you have in town for paint jobbers?Maybe it is time to move down the road,or do what I have done,call your jobber and tell him to come get his F@#king paint :rofl :rofl .
Here are a few ideas that can save you some cash.
1.Carborundum sand paper is made by norton(saint gobain abrasives) and it is always cheaper and identical to the higher priced norton,goes farther than 3m.
2.3m 233+ tape is nice but the carbo or norton premium or 3m yellow tape works just as good,3m white masking paper is cheap also.
3.Are you using sata rps cups for everything? If you are just try using it for your waterborne,and metal pots for sealer and clear.
4.You could start using a lower line of primers in your system as long as your jobber will warranty them eg omni mp 282.
5.I agree that $600 for 7.5 litres of clear is stupid,but on the flipside every cheap clear I have used has bit me in the ass.But one that I have used on some budget jobs is matrix Autoglas 40 LV,our cost on 7.5L kit is around $185,and be damned if it isn’t easy to spray and looks nice and glossy and stays that way.Can’t say that for upol,carsystem,rubberseal or any of the other cheap crap clears out there.:agree :rofl :rofl
Why don’t you take the nozzle set out then just soak the head of the spraygun in a cup full of fresh gunwash for a few hrs to soften it.You might be able to get it clean with out taking out the ring.
When I feel like trying to reproduce it I will add about 5-10% water to OTO and spray it out of a 1.8-2.0 primer gun at a low pressure.That is the only way I have come close to matching it,the oto gun puts in on too thick and rough.
Whats with bodymen thinking 2 coats of sealer is going to fix sand scratches,its cheaper and faster to finish in 400 :wak :wak I will take pictures of some hooks we made out of rebar(with all the grooves) that we use to hang parts when we spray them inside and out.There are thousands of coats of sealer and paint on them and the grooves are still there.You must be joking in comparing alkyd enamel and shitty prep to todays products,and you said I use a low tech system :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :deadhorse :deadhorse
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=24013][quote=”ding” post=24006]320 grit for final prep. Good luck with that :whistle:[/quote]
if u seal over it tell me whats wrong with it?? :wak :wak[/quote]
😡 😡 😡 It’s a little coarse,400 is the minimum I would go if I was sealing ,maybe “pro”base has built in scratch filling properties,or are you using rock guard as a sealer? :rofl :rofl :rofl
It also depends if you are finishing by hand or machine,dry vs wet. :roflAs long as you have at least 15C in your shop overnight would be the best choice.If you have an infrared heat lamp put it on the sag for 20 mins,let cool then sand and polish.
:agree :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
Not enough flash time between coats and stacking your coats to fast will contribute to delam.They are also reccomending 2 medium wet coats + drop coat instead of a super wet first coat to avoid this.Funny how things have changed since they started pushing waterborne here since late 2006/2007.
No it is a complete assembly.
I agree with Jack,air pressure doesn’t do anything to autowave.You can do a drop coat at 17 psi or 24psi it still looks the same.Now the only thing you can do is to not dropcoat it,that will make a difference,the drop coat with waterborne is lighter compared to darker with solvent.
As far as tri-stages I could write a book about them,but here are some ideas.Make sure your ground coat matches first or you are fuked :deadhorse :deadhorse
If time permits after I have my ground coat blended out,I will take 1 part RTS ground coat + 1 part midcoat and mix them together and blend out this mixture to make an even smoother transition(this is taught in akzo’s advanced application course).You also need to do a reverse or staggered blend with your mid coat or else you will have a build up of midcoat making it look darker at the ends of your blend.Also mark your mid coats with a felt marker on the masking paper for a reference so you know where you are at.Your first coat should go to your maximum blend area,2nd coat to your minimum,3rd coat in the middle of coat 1 and 2.You might want to think about leaving tri-stages out all together and just deal with them another night. :cheers