Jayson Munro
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
The main reason you don’t want a gasless welder is heat,very hard to control,easier to warp.Flux core welders are for doing farm jobs like fenceposts and out door stuff,not automotive sheet metal.Dinger gave good advice,a miller,lincoln,or a hobart are good machines.A mig is like a paint gun,you get what you pay for.
How long did you wait between your sealer,base coat applicatiions.Mixing 3 different products is asking for problems,but we have all done it :woohoo: Where did you spray it?Booth,garage?
Are you spritzing with water?what rpm are you running,how long has your clear cured before you polish ,what products are you using?
Try a 1.3 set up,your problems will disappear 😉
One thing I would like to add for you to think about.When you remove the paint from your damaged area go 2-3 inches larger than you think you need.This will give you lots of room to feel your transition from filler into the undamaged area of your panel.If you do it this way there is no need to feather your paint before you put filler on your panel and waste time.When you think your filler work is close don’t put a bit of putty or filler to try and touch up a few spots,SKIM COAT the whole area.When you are finished your filler work you should have filler/putty,1-3 inches of bare metal surrounding your filler work,then your feathered paint giving you a smooth transition.If you do it this way you will be amazed at how straight and ripple free your work is with out sand scratches.
Now I understand why so many coats,sikkens reccomends a 1.4 or 1.5 in an hvlp,the devilbiss tekna is the best gun for autowave,even better than the sata 3000 hvlp I was using before.Try reducing your midcoat 30-40%,makes it easier to spray.I would be tempted to just blend into the car and be done with it,or just say that bumpers don’t match anyway :p
Does your ground coat color match,7 coats of mid coat is alot for autowave,never had to do more than 4.Hope ya get it figured out.
Or too small of a fluid tip,causing you to go slower so you can get a good film build causing build up at the edges.I say put in a size bigger fluid tip and see what happens.I had that problem with Sikkens HS plus and a 1.3 in an rp,went to a 1.4 and never happened again.You could also up your air pressure to improve atomization vs.choking your fluid.Also to fast of a clear can cause the same thing,you have to hose it on to keep it wet,just my 2cents 😉
We all have jobs that kick us in the balls every now and then.Here is a different idea,not sure what end you did but you could blend into the fenders or quarters and do it just like you did your bumper,that way there is no chance for another re-do.I must be lucky I did toyota 070 the other day,did the hatch inside and out and the bumper cover and it matched bang on.I find with most tri-stages in autowave you need 2 coats + a drop coat at the same or 2psi less air pressure.Jason28 also had a good tip for using a cleaner to remove the static charge on the cover.
If you use the autocryl rapid hardener that is all you need unless it is over 100F.That is all we used for hardener with the rapid,medium,standard activators.I did plenty of complete resprays that were on the large side with rapid hardener/standard activator,I believe there is an extra slow activator too.If you use rapid hardener,rapid activator it is fast,a touch of extra top and it is faster yet.When we used ABP we used acIII for spot painting and HS plus for the nicer and bigger jobs.Lesonal glamour clear was one of my favorites,2:1:20% and it looked awesome,great for completes.
A friend of mine sprays it at the chrysler dealership in town,he doesn’t like it.They have issues with there clear,dieback and delam being the biggest issues,colormatch is hit and miss.
If you think energy pro is nice you are in for a surprise when you use superior,there is no comparison.Energy pro you have to work a little bit to make it nice on the bigger jobs.It does not have depth or as nice a gloss as superior,and superior is effortless to spray and it looks fantastic no matter what.The biggest job I used it on was a 06 gmc crew cab that I did the whole side on with slow and that was pushing it.When you use the energy pro hardener I do not like it at all,I found using superior hardener in the energy pro makes it spray better.I use superior on 90% of my jobs.If I was in the states I would use HS plus or lesonal glamour clear over autowave.
There are nicer clears than energy pro,I’m surprised you like it.I don’t use it for anything more than a panel or a bumper cover.
You need to remove more paint around your damaged area,filler over paint will just cause you grief.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=21964]i prefer charmin for my final wipe i worry about those blu shop towels plugging up my septic :p :p :p[/quote] :rofl :rofl