Jayson Munro
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Good effort for your first try :cheers Next time start on the outside perimeter of the roof and work towards the center,keep your shrinks no bigger than a quarter,even a dime size will work.Use a neutral flame on your torch with a 00 tip,and most times all you need is to heat it till the metal truns blue and quench it,oil can be gone.For roofs the unispotter shrink attachment works well,very rarely should a person ever shrink a roof,hood or trunk.So good for you for trying. 😉
I’ll look tomorrow…I’m old and I forgot 😆 Our computer is updated every 3 months,who knows I might not be able to look it up either :kofee
Sikkens rally black or utech 200 urethane mixed with 100% flatening agent,2 laps around the car and you are done vs 2-3 coats of base plus 2 coats of flat clear…work smart not hard :weights
When I’m back to work tomorrow just for kicks I will look up the formula.If there is a SEC toner needed my program will show me which one or tell me to contact the help desk.Nothing wrong with lesonal sb they have variants just like Autobase plus and good color match but it might take an extra coat for coverage.If you called the colorlab they would make you a formula for U-tech polybase,they have done it for me many times.The online formula lookup doesn’t work half the time,the one at the shop works better for me.
Nope not you,all sikkens clears have an anti slip agent on the surface of there clears.Try wiping the panel with a good waterborne/isoproplyl alcohol cleaner before you sand or polish,it makes life easier.
If you are familiar with using a razorblade like a plane and shaving runs down it also works on dirt nibs.If you gently scrape the nibs until they are gone then use a 3″ orbital sander with 1500,then 2000,then polish the spots and out the door.Much faster than sanding by hand,I have used this technique many times when in a hurry.Here is a vid of old powerblock trucks host Mullet man Kevin tetz showing how to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hi7LT0OBOisIf you have a U-tech bench already call your supplier,I am sure lesonal will have a formula for it.
The training center application course will help you a great deal,the one up here is a 2 day course.Don’t use multiple medium coats for metallic control,this will cause your surface to be very rough,your first coat should be 100% wet like clear or single stage,you want to see the metallics “swimming”believe it or not this is the most important step in getting your metallics even.Second coat is medium wet or 75%,remember with autowave the wetter the better.3rd coat reduce your pressure to 18-19 psi and stay 12-14 inches away from the panel with slow even passes,full trigger,you want it to look peppered or like the beach sand when it starts to rain ,it should be wet enough that the paint will be wet and transfer to your finger,if it is to dry it will be grainy,your tack rag should glide over the area with no rough areas.First coat and second coat I am 3.5-4.5 inches away,close and fast is the key,you can slow down on you second coat a bit.Your first coat is your most important if this is off your control coat will not fix it,hope this helps you. :rock
Come on Mo that is like comparing a new OEM fender vs a tong yang you know which one is better :deadhorse I have had a couple of cheap chinese palm sanders that didn’t last more than a month or two vs some sanders I have had for 20 plus years.Hutchins are very tough and the only bearing that goes is the bottom one on the shaft,easy to rebuild.My dynabrade is over 10 years old but I found it smoother than the hutchins 4500/3500 series,you could be right Barry I haven’t tried a new dynabrade to compare.
This sander has me thinking,did they build a cheap POS to compete with tong yang china stuff?? Seems like it,might want to just keep your red top sander Barry,can’t see this one being better.When I started in the industry hutchins were the best sanders around,then I tried a Dynabrade sander and haven’t looked back.The dynabrade sanders are built in the states not offshore,I think they have hutchins beat IMHO.
The other guys are right,do your self a favor and do it in base clear,single stage metallic can be difficult if you have never sprayed it before.
If you spray side to side when you come back to fog it go up and down.You can spray however you like,just come back and fog a few panels.I would spray roof and trunk,then go spray right quarter and door,then go fog roof and trunk,go do left quarter and door,then go and fog the right side get it..clear as mud :stoned Like I said before spray your first coat medium and see how the metallics lay out,if everything goes well no need to fog/mist it.When I do my second coat that is usually when I will fog/mist it just to make sure the metallics are laid out properly.
No it is a different technique for SS metallic.Drop coat for base means to drop your air pressure and increase your distance,if you did this for single stage it will mottle.When spraying a metallic SS on a complete you want to do 3-4 panels,then come back to where you started and increase your distance and keep you pressure the same and fog it on to the panels in the opposite direction.Then go spray a few more panels,then come back and fog the area to even out the metallics.Let your first coat set up really good before coat # 2,if you get on it too soon you will see the metallics start to move around :stoned If you have good gun control you will only have to do this on your last coat.Spraying SS metalics is a lost art,not very many painters can do this anymore,so be warned,this can be tricky for someone with limited experience.We still do lots of it on semis at work with imron and delfleet and utech.I strongly suggest doing a junk fender or hood so you can get the hang of it.Give your self more gun distance vs spraying basecoat,it will cut down on tiger stripes.This is where a good old fashioned Devilbiss JGA or MBC or Binks #7 will work great.Good Luck 😉
666 works best reduced around 20%,I would not use it straight out of the can,it will look like corn on the cob :clappy Be careful with it ,if you have any contamination you will find out fast 😛 A nice close fast medium coat is all that is needed.I’m also a tekna convert,used to use a sata 3000 hvlp 1.4HC and struggled with some colors.wait until you try a color with 888 EC :stoned If you are having trouble with a grainy look with your blends it could be a couple of things.Your control coat is not wet enough,that peppered look is bang on,touch your masking paper when you are done your control coat,it should be wet enough to get paint on your glove when you check it with your finger.I am at least 14 inches away at similar pressures as ryan.If you don’t drop your pressure for your control coat you run the risk of a dry grainy blend,pearls on the other hand you can do it like Ben and keep the pressure the same.When you do your blend if you are still having trouble you can cut your ready to spray AW 50% with your ready to spray 666 mixture and do your blend.But do not do your last control coat over everything with this mixture,it will mottle.So do your drop coat,cut your paint with 666 mix,then do your final blend.Since I started using the tekna I haven’t had to do this since.For metallics I will reduce 30% right off the bat,more if it is hotter.Since I started with the tekna I have 0 issues with mottling.
I figured as much….be careful with your decision,you will find that kind of thing in every shop no matter how big or small.Talk to your boss first and test the water,let him know your thoughts and maybe things can change…going to work at the shop down the road isn’t always the answer(been there done that) sometimes the grass isn’t always greener on the other side 😉 Good luck and keep us posted on your decision.