Jayson Munro
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Come on now you know it would be me :clappy :stoned :rock or Dinger :rofl
Truck looks great Lild,nice job :cheers
Good vids Lild,they were fun to watch.That crackberry does a darn good job :clappy
He was doing the old classic Gene Winfield kustom painting trick of doing a bottom color fading into the top color,cool trick used on the old leadsleds back in the day.I think he had to match a fade job that had a repair done to it.
The speed is about the same as a 3000rp but faster than a first gen rp.I am a close fast painter (3-4 inches from surface about 75% overlap) and it fits my style .I have always run what sata has recomended for what I spray (sikkens) which is a 1.4,I tried a 1.3 in a first gen and 3000rp and did not like the way it sprayed.This time around the paint charts suggest a 1.2-1.3 so I got a 1.3.The interesting thing I found when you compare the fluid tips between all 3 generation rp’s they are different sizes.For example a 1.4 first gen is smaller than a1.4 300rp,and a 1.3 4000rp is about the same size as a 1.4 3000rp :blink: real goofy but interesting.I had a look at the super nova and it just looks ridiculous,and feels uncomfortable,and the iwata guy wanted $100 more for the iwata,to me it looks like a toy 😉
I have been spraying with one for the last 2 weeks,there is no comparison to the 3000…the 4000 is that much nicer.The air cap and fluid tip have been redesigned and they have more holes=better atomization.The fan is longer and narrower,the operating pressuere has been reduced to a max of 32 psi but 29-30 is just right.The 4000 rp has less overspray,is 25 grams lighter than a 3000rp and it is whsiper quiet and more comfortable due to the handle being redesigned. You can also change the fan from wide to round in a quarter turn with your thumb.I was planning to do a review with pics but I do not have time right now.IMHO the 4000rp is the best rp yet and I have been a rp user for the last 9 years and have all 3 versions. I have also found that it handles exterme high solids clear coats(sikkens superior 250 or energy pro 250) with ease and uses less material than a 3000 rp.What else do you want to know :stoned
I would be inclined to say a big fat no they won’t work.21 line was discontinued so long ago I dont even remember when the actual date was but I’m thinking 94 or 95.The hardeners for 21 line were medium solids and now they are high solids,tough call if they will work.They might cure ok but longevity could be an issue.The only thing you could do is mix some up and try it and see,but the mixing ratio could be different.If it something you care about you would be better off to take a loss and start over,after sitting so long the paint might not be any good.I sprayed lots of 21 and 54 line back in the day but you could be asking for trouble mixing hardeners,not worth the risk IMHO.
:welc Rob,and Merry Christmas :cheers
I have no complaints about autowave,it is extremely easy to use and color match is second to none.I don’t find the tinters dirty at all,one thing to keep in mind is to treat 245 black tinter differently,you need to manually stir it for at least a minute before putting ot on the bench,this will cut down on shmag in the can.Also treat all of the 888 metalic toners the same way.
Energy pro 250 is a nice quick clear but it is identical to the lesonal pro-air lv,same stuff in a different can.One tip that was given to me by the training center is to use superior 250 hardener in place of the energy pro hardener,it totally changes the way it sprays,much nicer product when you change the hardener.We have been using it this way since last summer.
When is the last time you changed your intake and exhaust filters??Don’t be cheap with filters either,get good ones.Your projects need to be as clean as possible before it goes in the booth,it is all about the prep.
Are you for real??No sh!t sikkens is going to be slower with no heat that is a no brainer :clappy Before we had a bake booth we would do 5-8 jobs a day with ACIII in a homemade down draft with no bake cycle,so I call BS on that one too.
Sounds like you are on the old variant deck system,with the new pro the computer (ecco head) will give you a number like gm 28,then you go to the deck and all the variants for that number are right there and they are accurate,basically a bunch of nice color chips on a metal ring.
What are you using,colorbuild plus??If you are they have different activators that will speed or slow them down,the fastest is spot and panel activator=air dry in an 45min to an hr or with a light on it for 20 and you are good to go.
Unfortunately there is only fast and slow but you can cocktail them to make medium.Also when it gets warm out It can be tough to spray more than 3 panels even with slow,it is a fast clear.You can also reduce it 10% on larger jobs to make it stay open a little longer.If you are using autobase plus you can use the lesonal reducers in them instead of high performance reducers,they will flash off faster and spray nicer IMHO,any questions about sikkens just ask :cheers
Hope ya had a great day Jimmo :hb :cheers
Looks good canuck,let your first coat of clear set up to be hand slick.That gas tank has the possibility for some runs if you are not careful :cheers
Nice video Jack….never should have cleaned up your guide coat gun :p