Jayson Munro
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You are absolutely correct it would have been easier but my friend is cheap :wak ,and he couldn’t afford a new floor.I am no stranger to rebuilding old cars and most of the repro parts are pretty good.But on the other hand the 69 dynacorn camaro body I did for a customer last year was a pos.
He did all the hard work,trimming the donor floor and taking out the old floor.All I did was sand blast the braces,put a coat of zero rust on the braces and the bottom of the floor,line it up and weld it in.I still had about 25hrs in it by the time I ground all the welds.It is a shame they cut the floor a couple of inches shy of the factory seam by the back seat,I had to butt weld it.I don’t know how he does it but he has always been able to sniff out good parts for a good price. :cens
That’s not bondo,that is some guy of of you tube,bondo’s booth is not that nice :rofl
That was pretty cool,that kid is gonna be good pretty soon.That gun that they are using used to be my favorite clear gun back in the day,gotta love the sata jet 90,that’s what the RP replaced.
You applied your base to soon,I would wait at least 10 minutes and only wipe in one direction,using an air blower is also a good idea to make sure it is dry..I would only use a thin coat if I had problems like you did.The other way is to wait for it to dry and scuff your imperfections and add another coat.Remember with autowave the wetter the better,the course I took at the training center stresses wet first coat(metallics moving around that will eventually settle)medium second coat,then the drop coat to even the metallics.Once again if you want to mix products I would stick to the same base and clear or clear from a second line from the same company.I don’t know if pro-air will stick to dupont cromax or sw personally I wouldn’t do it,but it might work on a solvent system.
The main reason you had a tough time is you don’t know what you are doing,it is not like spraying solvent and you are not alone so don’t take this the wrong way 😉 .You need to forget what you know about painting and stop comparing it to solvent,it is completely different.That is why they send you on a 2 day course or have a tech rep come in and show you how to spray it.If you apply your paint to soon before your wax and grease remover flashes it can crater on you.You are supposed to see your metallics swimming in your first coat and it is supposed to be wet,then med,then drop coat.Were you waiting for the base to be dull before your next coat?Autowave is the easiest waterborne to use”once you know how”they are other people who will agree with me on this statement that have changed from another waterborne.Was your first paint job perfect?Keep at it and you will get the hang of it.
If you want to mix and match products go for it but you are asking for problems,it is not like the solvent days where you can get away with it,stick to one company for the topcoats.Your nason clear might be fine for awhile but I would put money on it that if it is out in the elements it will eventually fail.There are only a few sikkens clears that you can use or else you get the same fate.Lots of companies say there clear will stick to x-brand or whatever but have they actually tested it with every brand I doubt it that would cost Millions. :roflI would look into the uniram gun cleaner,this is the model we use and it works well.www.uniram.com/um120w.html You can use a 5 gallon pail of dominion sure seal aquasolve 2-3 times before you have to replace it.Not sure of the cost of a pail of it but I don’t think it is very much.I would definitely talk to basf about giving you one,the paint companies are supposed to eat the setup costs for the shop,just like the guns they gave you.Sikkens treated us very well through our change,they gave us the gun washer.I would say $500 is very high.
Ryan is absolutely right pro-air is a great clear but it is too fast for anything larger than 3 panels.Lesonal glamor clear is very nice and can also be used over autowave.Lesonal has some new low voc clears out for their waterborne but I have not used them.
I don’t know whats going to happen with utech but I don’t think any of their clears are compatible.
You can use sikkens HS+ clear,superior 250 clear,or HS+LV(not a fan of this stuff).The reason you don’t want to use nason clear is it won’t stick!!!Go ahead and try it but when it peels….you get the idea.Shelf life can be increased to 3 months with 5% LP additive added BEFORE the activator is added.The reason basf and dupont an SW have a long shelf life is they are still solvent tinters,then they use a waterborne binder to make it a low voc product,they still need a mixing machine to stir them up,sikkens and ppg only need the can shaken a few times before you pour.
Reduction depends on the humidity,under 40%rh I reduce metallic and pearl colors 30%,if it is hot and dry you can use 50%,solid colors I reduce 10%.
Shelf life is as follows,metallic and pearls one week,solid colors 3 months,metallics and pearls with MM777 are only good for 24hrs,activator has no effect on potlife.Activator is not sensitive like a urethane hardener,it is basically alcohol and water.As soon as you mix a formula and before you add activator your potlife has started.
What are you painting?A pint is not going to go very far.If you have never sprayed autowave it is a lot different than solvent.You spray it at 29-30psi for you first coat(should be wet like clear,almost running your metallics should be swimming,this is very important for metallic control)second coat is medium wet,third coat is tricky,drop your pressure to 22-24psi and increase your distance to 12-16 inches using full trigger.If you have any questions just ask I spray this stuff every day.Oh by the way nason clear won’t work.
You know what Jimmo,we couldn’t justify the $600 that sata wanted so we got 4 of the hand held blowers from princess auto(harbor freight) and have used them for a year with no problems.They are only $15 bucks a piece and mount 2 per stand.The good thing about it is when one of the paint shop helpers drives over one it’s not so tragic :rofl Honestly I could not see a difference between the cheap blower and the sata in performance,spray guns is another story.I say get the cheapies and save your money for the qads.
Tri stage can be tricky if you have never done them before.I would not completely seal the door and fender,just spot seal.This means spray sealer over the primed area only then melt the edge with a blending solvent.Now I would spray 1-2 coats of silver(ground coat) and fade it out a little more with each coat.(if you know how many coats was put on you are ahead of the game).Now mix up your midcoat and mix it one to one with your ground coat.Proceed to do one or two coats of this mixture and gradually fading it out to make a more uniform blend of the foundation color.Now you can spray your midcoat/candy,you know how many coats were used so you are ahead of the game(if you do not know how many coats were used you make a letdown panel before you spray the car).When I do a tri- stage I stagger my mid-coats to make the blend less noticeable.My first coat of the midcoat will go to my maximum blend area.My second coat will go just past my foundation coat area.And if neccesary my third coat will go in between coats one and three.I have used this technique to repair hundreds of tri stages with great success.I find it helpful to mark where my mid-coats stop on the masking paper with a sharpie.Sometimes you need to take a couple of extra panels to do your blend with a tri-stage,with the amount of blending involved you will need more room.I know it sounds confusing but take your time.
:rofl wow,you really are a dick tonight aren’t you :cens
:rofl :rofl I really like the harbor freight binks#7 copy,really puts it on like glass :lol1 You guys crack me up!
nobody was questioning your skills,its just a matter of getting paid the right amount,I don’t think the price is fair.This old chevelle was supposedly ready for paint and came to me in primer,it was not even close and the bill was $4200 not including materials,and this was just a side job.Don’t be afraid to charge what you are worth.If you want to do one to test the water and maybe charge more on the next one.Good luck 😉
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