Jayson Munro
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Jinx is that a peterbilt hood?Kinda looks like it is lifted up?Looks good dude!
So you have to do the final wet sand of the primer,mask and paint.cut and buff for $1500? I don’t think that is a good price at all maybe for him but not for you.I guess it depends on how bad you want to do it,you could just try one job for him and see how it goes.I would definitely look at a finished car to see what his standards are and if it seems fair for the price he is willing to pay.If you use our shop rate of $65@hr x the 3days you think it will take you it works out to $1560.Now keep in mind that doing a cut and buff on a “showcar” in 8 hrs is unrealistic,you can easily spend 40hrs.If it was me I would not do it for that price,you could be working for fee,just my 2 cents.
Welcome DC,you guys do nice work,looks like a nice place. :welc from another Albertan,I’m down south in Lethbridge,Funny thing is the shop I work at is called Kustom Autobody.
We have been using that primer for 3 years the number on the can should be 20:25,or S2025.It is very hard to spray even with a 2.0 tip,we spray it mixed 4:1:1 or even a 10-15% and it works fine.We have a tech sheet that says you can mix it either way.I would board it out with 180 and then put on 2-3 coats mixed4:1:1 with a 2.0 tip,if you need a gun I could lend you one so you don’t have to buy another one.It says right on the can you need a 2.0 or 2.2 to spray it,it is an excellent primer surfacer.
Depends on what brand you are using,but I would not sand epoxy.Most epoxies have a long re-coat window(u-tech or sikkens is 7 days)If you are worried about it let your epoxy flash for an hr or overnight(check tech sheet for your brand)then put on 3-4 coats of 2k.I would then long block it with 180 dry to make sure everything is straight,put on another 2-3 coats of high build primer and wet block it with 400-500 and paint it.Just depends how nice you want it,you could just use etch primer too.
Hi and welcome to this site,there is a great bunch of guys here.Hope you enjoy your stay :welc
Thanks Captain Obvious :chair :wak
nothing is wrong with the first gen rp,but once you use a new 3000rp you won’t use the old gun.Trust me once ya try one you will understand,softer spray,wider fan,just a better gun.The rp3000 will shoot base just fine even candies,pearls and all the tough colors.I only use my rp for clear.A great gun for base is the devilbiss plus,I used that and an first gen rp for basecoat for many years.
You could try a change to the orange air cap on the Iwata,that cap is supposed to spray 95%of base colors.Personaly I’m not an Iwata fan,but if you have a nr2ooo and it has served you well,then you will be happy with a new 3000 hvlp.I use one for waterborne basecoat and it works flawlessly with pearls,metallics,and tri stage.The best clear coat gun is without a doubt the 3000rp,a big improvement over the first gen rp.
Hey Craig,Chris from silver is a close friend of mine and I like dealing with him too.I also did the bodywork and painting on that old black 71 pro street comet of his that won best paint at 2007 street machine weekend.I understand about time constraints,good luck with your project 😉
Hi Craig,there are more than 2 places that sell automotive paint in our area.1.Napa sells Dupont,2.Custom Engine and Parts sells PPG,3.Acklands Grainger sells Dupont,4.Silver automotive sells Sher Will(sold ppg for 30 years until 2 years ago,never should have changed :wak )5.Offshore autobody supply sells sikkens,lesonal,U-tech.Just in case you want to do some shopping,as far as the most knowledgeable place,my vote is offshore,2 guys there have over 40 years combined in the autobody trade and they know what they are talking about,the otherplaces only have a partsman at best,no first hand knowledge.By the way when you have that thing ready to shoot let me know,I could shoot it for ya in the downdraft at work.
Glad to hear you are happy with your gun,its amazing what a difference a good spraygun can make.Now you will be painting more consistently and enjoying yourself at the same time :clappy
As far as I know the standard hardener is no more.I would try the medium on a side but I’m not sure how warm your booth will be without an air makeup,if you can keep a consistent 70-75 degrees then yes.Ac3 can’t be used over autowave and it is on its way out here in Canada.If you are changing to autowave and it gets cold where you are you absolutely have to have an air-makeup for your booth.
Not to sure about that one,maybe 30-mins to a couple of hrs,never been in that situation.We have an air make up and a bake cycle so I guess you will have to experiment :unsure: Careful with the accelerator in rapid as it can kill the shine if you are not careful.I was never a fan of autoclear 3,we use HS+ clear and a couple of others but it works.
The difference between XP and standard hardener is speed and mixing ratio.The xp hardener replaced the standard hardener and it is only used in autoclear3 and it mixes 100:33:50 and if ya use the right stir stick it is easy,I forget the #.If all you are doing is 1-2 panels all I would use is the xp hardener and rapid activator.If you are doing a hood or a side I would use medium activator,rapid will die off a bit on a horizontal surface so you need to be careful.I would only use standard activator on a complete or if the temp was passed 80 degrees when doing a side.You can speed it up by adding some accelerator(extra top)to help kick it over.If you have any other questions let me know I have used this system for years and know it inside out.Good luck.When shooting sikkens clears I like to let the first coat set up so I can touch itand it is slightly tacky just passed stringy,this is a good way to avoid runs.