james caruso
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Youll get a better match yourself than what youll get from colorrite. Their matches usually arent great and the paint itself sucks. Its verry soft and gummy.
I dont have dupont codes but for bikes, as ben said its a shot in the dark. With all the bikes i do i have found the best way is to find the closest color chip and tint from there. Same applies to a camera. One thing to note is that bike colors tend to be more clean than cars so most color formulas will be simple with not alot of toners mixed in. It makes them easy to mix or tint by eye.
The gun had one of those small vortex things on it like the ones 3m has to cool the air going into your mask. This one just worked in reverse. The gun got really warm felt like i was holding a cup of coffee. Man i cant remember the company name. It was three letters and started with an A. Gun body was black and composite i think.
I have heard that on shermin before also but that is the only one and i have never used that system. I have heard many quirky things with shermin. For the most part though base is non crosslinked so even if its weeks old you could take reducer on a rag and it would wipe it off. Solvent in your clear bite in just fine. I have many jobs that i have done on daily driven vehicles and never once had clear delam. I occasionally get a bike that the customer will wreck and the weak point is always the base to primer or sealer.
You know jason brought something good up concerning waterborne. For those of you that use it, what happens if you clear that stuff too early. It is water so what if there is a little dampness left in the base and you clear it? I would imagine you need to be real carefull with not trapping water under clear?
As for solvent base, tech sheets are written for production shops. Because it says 15-20 minutes doesnt mean you gotta get clear on it in that amount of time. Most every job i do unless its a single color will sit in base for weeks before clear while we are doing artwork. Once done we just clear it. Thats pretty much the norm across the board with any custom painting. Recoat windows go out the window and after years and years of paintjobs i can say atleast with the systems have used recoat windows are a bunch of bs. Probably just another thing a paint company can use to get out of a warranty.
you guys gotta remember that i dont do any production style work so i was just curious what normal procedure is for most of you. i will say this that with a 10 or even 30 minute flash you are going to be trapping some type of solvents and there is going to be some type of shrinkage. probably just acceptable amounts of for collision type work. now doing show work where there is a sanded and buffed finish you will easily see it down the road. for me, i always try and wait a minimum of 4 hours, preferably overnight. for all the solvents to come out it takes a minimum of 12-18 hours or so. i do realize that if any of you guys did that your shop would easily go bankrupt!!
Now i dont do production work but 10 minutes flash on the base before clear sounds absolutely obsurd. That has dieback written all over it. Do most of you guys only wait that long before clear? Diamont has some very slow tail solvents so while it flashes and dulls out quick it takes a long time for those solvents to come out.
I have to say i agree with rat. When i worked for the yacht co i remember spraying outside when it was snowing out. Once winter past and things warmed up again what i sprayed cured out just fine. Was it the right thing to do, hell no but you couldnt tell them that so they got what they got.
Bob, that is called a fairing board and is made by 3m. Its only in their marine catalog. They make 4.5″ stickit roll paper for it as well we just never see that stuff on the automotive side.
I like the 3m blocks myself. I know what you are talking a oit with the durablocks and i dont like them either except the odd shapes and the small thin one they call the scuff pad, that this is awesome. For a larger block with some flex look into the afs sanders. They are really nice.
What ryan and ben said is all good advise. The biggest thing though is realizing if you are going to be able to get an invisible blend in the location of the repair. If your blend is on a large car and its in the middle of the door then most likely you are never going to blend that without shooting almost the whole side. If the blend is on a corner or low on the car then you can get away with that.
Ben and ryan got it right on. All compounds and polishes will fill scratches to some degree. Its just the lubricants in them. You have got to get that off the paint to really see what you got. When you wash the car your cleaning the paint and then you are seeing the real deal. Alcohol cleaners work well as said before. Many companies also makes a cleanup spray. Presta has one as well as 3m. Basically they are alcohol with other stuff in them to help clean. Water/alcohol base wax and grease removers work well also.
I have done quite a few engine blocks on moth car and motorcycle. I always epoxy then ss on them. Never had one fail
Very good basecoat. Havent used the clears or primers.
I have always used sata for my primer guns. I currently have the 100b in a 1.9 which is a really awesome gun. At one time i was using a 1.7 and felt it was too small and slow for thicker primers.1.9 is a perfect size.
Ill save you the trouble and tell you paint is going to peel right off of unprepped glass. In some way shape or form the glass needs to be etched. You can use some sort of adhesion promoter/etching solution or you can etch it with a blaster like i did. Once its frosted your good to go