james caruso
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
[b]dturcotte wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]Its completely opaque. The cab of the truck is white so i painted the glass teal first then the white cab color over it so from the outside it matches body color. This is an old icecream truck i restored.[/quote]pics?? :exci[/quote]
http://www.xtremekreations.com/carsgallery/Album11.htm
I agree. If you have a 400 then get the orange cap fot it. Thats what i use for base everyday. Its a great gun. Maybe not the #1 base gun out there but its damn good compared to anything else on your price range.
Its completely opaque. The cab of the truck is white so i painted the glass teal first then the white cab color over it so from the outside it matches body color. This is an old icecream truck i restored.
ha!! i dont know what your talkin about!! :wak i never said spi anywhere in my post. :lol1 thats 8mos ago!!
here is a pic of a back window on a 50 chevy truck i did. been a year and a half now and still looks good with no issues. this is basecoat but i do agree with the other guys that a single stage would be stronger. anyway, i did the etching on it, so what i did was etch the logo on the front side then on the back side where the color is i etched the whole thing so it was all frosted giving the paint something to hold onto. once i put the paint on the etching disappears making it just the color you painted it with. its kinda like when you sand clearcoat and dull it out then when you reclear, boom its clear again. to etch the glass i blasted it with a real fine media. if the paint has a good tooth and you use a single stage urethane it wont let go and release on you.
[IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m192/xtremek6/DSCN6573-1.jpg[/IMG]
dry. i use psa roll paper on a block. i use whatever block is necessary for the job. usually the hardest block i can find. i buzz over everything with 400 and a da w/soft pad when all done just to get a nice consistant finish. to get the finish really flat you gotta hardblock.
if i rememeber right, that formula has a ton of clear in it and doesn’t cover well in even the premium paint lines. i would say on that formula the undercoat color will definately have an effect on final color of the paint. i would make sure the base color is a nice solid very light grey or white. wouldn’t hurt to use a sealer under it.
Lights are all the same. Made of polycarbonate. Cracking came from using laquer on them which is high solvent and it attacks the plastic. use real urethane clear. Any clear you would normally use on a paintjob.
Well 600 will certainly take longer but it also wont get it quite as flat. Remember coarser cuts flatter easier. if your using a mid solids clear and just pitbdown 2 coats then yes i might be worried about cut throughs but 3 coats of a nice high solids. Clear and your fine…….assuming you bodywork is good
less than 600 in primer will make scratches show in a metallic base but blocking between clears is different. you wont see scratches at all in clearcoat. the only way you will is if you get dirt on the panel and trap it between layers. the higher grits just dont work the clear as flat. i dont do any wetsanding in my shop other than 3000 so i block with 400 dry. usually i get the 3m on rolls. occasionally for certain things i will use 400 on a da with a softpad but it doesn’t get things quite as flat. every job i do here always need to go through 2-4 clear sessions and its always blocked with 400 between. what you can do if you are worried is block with 400 then put a softpad on your da and buzz over the panel real quick with some 600 just to smooth things out. its really not necessary though. just work clean and make sure before you do that second round of clear that you clean, clean and reclean the panel so you dont trap dirt between layers.
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]Looks awesome, little curious to see the whole car now Jim.[/quote]:lol1 me too!! i have got so many cars out there that i did that are really nice and i have been waiting years to get a picture of. problem is i dont do the whole car. metal, body and paint, then they go back to the customer or another shop for the rest so it can be quite awhile until i see anything. sometime these things are people’s life long projects. :S the last two i did, the 41 caddy and 57 chevy shouldn’t take long though. they should have them together by the holidays at the latest.
the way the base lays out wont have an effect on the finish, atleast the blackness of it and it would be a waste of time to sand the base. the best thing you can do though is to clear twice. clear, block with 400 then reclear with a slow, slightly overreduced clearcoat, sand and buff. here are some pics of parts i did a few months back on a 41 caddy i restored.
[IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m192/xtremek6/IMG_2498.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m192/xtremek6/IMG_2503.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m192/xtremek6/IMG_2510.jpg[/IMG]just did one today on a vw. totally agree with ryan. i did it the exact same way.
single stage works good, base clear is fine as well. i have used both on bikes and cars. everyone here is on the right track. a sealer coat of epoxy first then base. i sell alot of small amounts of base to a local car customizing shop who probably does 1-6 set of car calipers a week. thats how i told those guys to do them and they all hold up great.
ha, since the post a couple months ago ours went up to $1380 a month. me, my wife and 2 kids.