james caruso
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
both are good clears. with a candy i would definately use universal. the price of it is still really reasonable. the universal has 2 extra uv inhibitors in it that the euro doesn’t have which you definately want with a candy job. euro is a harder clear while universal is slightly softer and will buff alot easier. i generally use the universal clear for just aboout everything but i also use euro for certain jobs. spi recently came out with an extra slow cat for the universal clear which is great for overalls in warmer weather.
spi sells direct. just call them and order. i would think if your jobber ordered recently he should have what you need. spi’s website is http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com. i’ve been using their stuff for probably 8 years now so pretty much everything in my galler is spi primer and clear with hok or diamont for color.
that really looks pretty simple to mask and i would do it pretty much how you got it there. i would put a piece of tape on each tip and cut the curve out since its way to tight to bend fineline around. i would then run fineline right on that edge. i cant see it taking more than 15-20 minutes a wheel. here was a set i did awhile back that was a bit more tricky and i think each wheel maybe took a little more than an hour plus i have to do both sides.
[IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m192/xtremek6/DSCN6587.jpg[/IMG]
i dont think your doing too bad steve. you might not be getting rich but its not bad anyway. the cost of health ins is no joke either. we get ours through my wife’s job. she is the office manager so its her job to take care of that for everyone and every year the cost just goes up and up. last time i checked for us being on the family plan was over $1200 a month. that alone is worth about 10 a hour.
the kd2000 isn’t a true epoxy. you dont want to do your filler work over it. its one of those epoxy/urethane hybrid filling primers. its great to do your filler work over epoxy but it needs to be a true epoxy primer. the kd2000 and other primers like them are made for production shops and speed bacause its a 1 shot deal. its not the best way to go. if thats what you have it ok just do your filler work on the bare metal then the kd over. also another thing, never put 3 coats of sg100 on. its not made for any kind of build. that product has serious problems. in the heat it will get so soft you can have delamination problems. if you have to use sg100 then limit it to 1 overreduced coat and be sure to put a shot of clearcoat activator in it. i stopped using that crap years ago. find another brand. spi makes a real good one that dries harder, faster and wont leave tape lines. almost every other paint company has them too.
absolutely, seen it a ton of times and always looks the same. you definately have a pinhole there. no sealer. it needs to be welded then pressure tested.
ahhh, we were always pure white or close to it. never tried the awlcraft so i know nothing of that.
thats pretty interesting. we would do it all the time, not saying it was right or anything. i have never heard of any dulling problems. i remember shooting the hull of a 72 foot sportfish yacht. there were 3 of us being rolled around on scaffolding just spraying non stop. that thing came out far from perfect and i remember about 20 guys sanding and buffing the whole hull when it was done. we had the rep from US paint there with us too. this was some years back. maybe some things changed with it or hell for all i know 8 months later the whole hull went to shit!! :lol1
awl grip is really the thing to use. its a pain in the balls to spray and not really user friendly but for your use the best thing. why do you say its unrepairable or unbuffable? i used to work for one of the largest yacht manufacturers in the world and sprayed the stuff quite often. we buffed it and blended in areas all the time. thats the most durable paint i have ever used.
only thing with scratch resistant clears is that they are hard as concrete. as long as you dont plan to buff them or put then on something thats too flexible your alright.
haa! no i meant if the customer wanted the car candy red or yellow, etc. that it would have come out perfect, i didn’t mean the base color. red, yellow, orange are much easier candies to spray. i think a gallon of bc00 is like $200 and the dye is $75 a quart. if i were spraying that car, knowing that green was going to be a ***, i would start out mixing it at 8 parts 00 and 1 part dye. do a couple coats and see how its going. at that point if i felt it needed some more dye then goto 6 parts. to achieve your color in 3 coats is way too concentrated. if you got that color in 3 coats then you should get the color next time in about 7 or so. let us know what you decide and how it turns out.
ooooh man, you couldn’t have picked a harder color candy to spray either. i think green is the hardest one i have ever sprayed. i spray candy like very other day and can still have trouble with greens. be proud of yourself there. for your first candy job and it being green that came out great. the key with green is to mix that color really weak. take the concentration you had and cut it in half. break it up into a bunch more coats. like you said maybe even as much as 10. if you get the carizzma stuff with the bc00 you should have a little better luck anyway. their candies have a little more clarity. rm’s mix ratio is 3-4 parts bc00 to 1 part dye. for the green i would make it 6-8 parts 00 to 1 part dye. i will say that if you shot that car in yellow, red or orage it would have turned out awesome without a single blotch. difficulty really has alot to do with color choice.
looks good. a couple months back i did the same car in the same color. i hate that mb silver!!
thats the craziest thing i’ve ever heard. while it seems like it breaks all the rules of needing a clean booth, it sounds like it might work.
yeah, the whole point of epoxy is for bare metal…..anything from cars to bridges to ships. its the best possible thing you could put on the metal BUT there are many different epoxy primers out there of all different grades. if you have rust pimples starting under the epoxy then you primed over some light rust and its simply growing so you can now see it. you need to strip the whole affected area with 80 grit, clean it well so its completely rust free and epoxy it again. a good epoxy will have great corrosion protection and should choke off rust. if its crappy primer then you should get some good stuff and throw the other out. you want a true epoxy not one of those 1 step high build epoxy/urethane hybrids.