james caruso
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still too small. if you got one that put out 15cfm that might just squeak by but run constantly and not shut off. 19cfm and up would be a better choice. if you can find a true industrial 5hp, that would be the min i would go. that would be an ingersoll t-30, an eaton or equivelant. here is a link……
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/504747.htm
i have heard alot of good things about the autowave compared to all the others. just what i hear though. i have not tried it or any other wb for that matter. my neightbor is a sikkens rep and he gave me a quart or pure white autowave with the reducer so we can try airbrushing with it…….we shall see.
at one time or another i have used every spi primer made and they are all really good and reasonable.
:welc
i spray clear at around 19-22psi. only time i might go up to 25 or so is if its super cold in the shop and the clear is really thick.
it will spray some primer if you have to. with a 1.4 and primer it will go slow and most will have to be overreduced to get it through the gun but it will work. the spi epoxy i use sprays best though a 1.4 but none of the urethanes. those i use a 1.9. the iwata is a great gun. i have 3 lph400’s. you will find them to be different than a sata in the way they feel and spray. sata’s are definatley built more solid and have a better feel but the iwata doesn’t blow as hard. it has a softer fan which allows me to put clear on so it flows out a little nicer. i like the 400 for clear hands down over either sata 3000. for base the 400 is ok and what i use but the sata is probably a little better in that neighborhood.
for flat black there are 2 that i use and work awesome. one is the sem hot rod black which is the link in the post above. i keep a quart of that on my rack all the time. stuff works great. its not expensive, has an even look with no blotchiness, its not too flat where it looks chalky or grey but not too shiny either and once cured its really durable. the other one is rm’s uno sc804. its not flattener but a preflattened matte black single stage just like sem’s. it looks and sprays exactly like the sem, just cures a little faster. only reason i dont use it is the price. its double the cost of sem’ stuff. with either one you should have no problem getting a nice even finish. when i do bikes and i need a flat clear i end up using my spi universal clear with the bc101 flop controller right off my rack. this works well also and i am able to keep formulas for it with basf’s software so i can just mix it on the scale.
i’m no blending pro but i do it once in a while and i would reshoot the whole thing. chances are if you tried to fix just the door it would look different.
x3….it must be removed. there is no wonder product you can just paint over. its all gimmick crap.
i cant rememebr if i told you this han but there was a slight change in the universal clear activator about a month or so ago so its a bit harder now. its kinda like the euro where it wont fingerprint after 24 hours. i have not used the new activator so i dont really have any feedback on it as of yet.
[b]G354DoRK wrote:[/b]
[quote]Wow ding that house is looking awesome,(except the finger)you getting some insulation on those walls if so what type? Really looks like you have alot of carpentry experience,I have a home that im working on right now im just breaking through the old plaster walls and putting some insulation on those walls,I will have to Re-do the old wiring too, House was built in 1900 it’s very old but pretty huge.[/quote]i did an older house once with plaster walls. boy did that suck. i remember taking the back side of a shovel and just cracking the walls like it was a hard boiled egg but then i was left with 2 tons of sand and chunks to get rid of not to mention the 3 million sticks of lathe. good luck with that!!! btw house is looking good ding.
all good clears and i think i am liking the ms over universal now as well. the universal is great for a beginner since it is much harder to run than the ms. bk pretty much covered it. ms is just a little slower for better flow.
its really no problem. i myself have shot atleast a couple hundred gallons of universal clear. mostly all with a 1.4 but i know many guys who use a 1.3 and its not an issue. that clear is so user friendly its not funny.
if a fine to medium silver then i would say yes for that but for the maroon i would play it safe and get another quart. you may be fine with 2 but it will be close. there is always more square footage on a truck than appears to be. keep in mind i am bad at estimating paint amounts.
i believe the restoration shop stuff is relabeled omni or some type of super econo ppg stuff. if yo uneed a specific color or paint code look into matrix or prospray. prospray covers really well, good metallic control, its a good polyester base and price is really good. when i built my shop they were trying to get their system in here and i had it down to either them or rm. if you decide on it and have noone local let me know and i have a jobber friend that will ship to you.