james caruso
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to remove wave you need to block the clear. wetsanding with 1000 aint going to do it. urethane wave come from a combination of a few things. hammering on too many coats of clear, too thick of a clear, improper gun setup, spraying too close or improper spray technique. higher the solid content of the clear the more prone to urethane wave as well but im not saying that you cant get a wave free finish with a high solids clear either. in any case at this point i would flow coat what you have. hard block the clear down with 400 so its flat then recoat with 3 coats of your clear. i dont know what the ratio of that clear is but add some reducer to it. not much maybe 10-15%. try not to hammer the coats on. let sit for a day or two then 1000, 2000, 3000 and buff.
All you really need is a step ladder. clearing the two colors seperately really isnt the right way to do this. you get your color the way you want it then clear is the final thing. your making it way harder on yourself than you need to.
why would you do the top then clear it? spray the top, mask it off, spray the bottom and clear the whole thing. no need to clear each color seperately.
bloverby is right. i just did a candy red job on a 66 with silver stripes and they had to be correct to the specs listed. you need to get that centerline down. take measurements to find center then get your 2″ tape down. from that point the rest is easy.
i recently tried eagle’s bufflex system. i am really liking it so far. haven’t used it enough yet to give any solid info though. i use their dry finishing film since its about less than half the cost of 3m’s, last twice as long and cuts twice as fast.
Well since you will he using urethane paints then what you normally use to clean your guns will be fine to clean the brush. To be quite honest i never put oil on my brush. I used to do all that crap then just stopped one day. When i did do it i would use spray gun lube. The devilbiss stuff works really well. Remember your using urethane paints so stay away from oil. Just keep the brush in a case where the hair wont get deformed and youll be good. For now while you are learning you dont need to trim the brush before you use it.
If your going to need an airbrush you do not want a trigger brush. That is for filling in background areas, larger stuff, etc. You cant really airbrush with it. Get yourself an iwata eclipse. Good all arpund airbrush. It will do some detail as well as larger stuff. Its great for dropshadowing your flames. As for the striping paint you will want a urethane type. For a brush you want a mack 00 or 000 with the blue wrapping around the handle……not the green.
you cant really use regular basecoat. it doesnt flow right. one shot is fine. i personally dont use it. i prefer the urethane type because i clearcoat over all my striping. it doesnt flow quite as well as oil base one shot does. it dries faster but since i am doing short lines and not a long line down the side of a car it works better for me as i dont run my fingers across wet paint. tcp global / kustom shop has both urethane types and alkyd enamel types. the alkyd enamel type is faster then oil base but not as fast as urethane. if your doing line art and that type of stuff or just edging off graphics on motorcycle parts then urethane might be the way you want to go. hok has aline of striping paint, that is urethane.
i myself have just a small miller 135. it has done everything automotive i have asked of it and more. great machine. totally agree with the rest of these guys, gotta have gas and i will say a good tool is never a bad investment. pay the few extra dollars and get a quality machine. atleast down the road if you dont want it anymore you can sell it. no one wants to buy a used piece of crap. hell you could even find a slightly used miller and save some money that way if your on a budget. a used miller will be a thousand times better than a new economy harbor freight type.
just sounds like your using way too much compound and the pad is completely loaded with it. the heat eventually burns off the water or lube and it just cakes up. use less. it doesnt have to be a big smeary mess.
i had a gallon here that was given to me to demo. i really like the stuff as well. like you said though, not for a complete. for most of the stuff i do here its great. buffs pretty easily which is important to me since everything that goes out is sanded and buffed but it also hardens quickly and still flows out nice and looks really good. doesnt quite give the depth and gloss of the superior but overall i like it better. for what i do anyway superior just doesn’t work as well.
While at sema i was checking out sprayzone. Seemed like a really quality and nice booth.
you can polish it out to a shine but your not going to flatten it back out and have it look right. it just looks like sanded or scuffed paint no matter what you try to dull it back out with. it will never look like it did.
used to use their clears and primers. only used their top of line stuff and i did like it except that the clears are rock hard. on flexible items they crack and shatter if just slightly flexed. if you do a bumper get it on the car in a day or two. of course im going back 8-9 years or so. other than that it was great stuff. never used their color.
i use the new white t-shirt rags. get them in 10 or 25lb boxes. been using them for 15 years