mike
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How do you tend to lay it down? heavy…medium? back to back I assume. I used two medium coats no special attention to flow
I think my blackest blacks have always been cleared once sanded and recleared….the depth seems to give it a good deep glow
Mike K
I demo’d this stuff two weeks ago on a quarter and decklid….on the quarter is didn’t look too bad but on the top surface it was brutal I actually was not a fan, I found it hazed up pretty bad and my rep recommended sticking to one or two small panels after that. It also needed a 1.5 instead of the 1.4 recommended I believe they’ve changed the tech sheet again though stating the new dry time is 15 or 20 mins air dry rather than the 30, which is quite nice and yes great for bakeless shops
IMO
I have done work with BMW warranted paint and can tell you that without a doubt its official people :cheers
thanks great info so far and yes I do indeed touch on shading using coating thickness and air pressure. Ben I do have an entire segment on munsell colour system (3 dimensions) and the order of importance for tinting.
whats everyones experience with pearls and tri-coat tinting ? and I guess tri-coat blending methods as ive seen a few different ones over the years…I know I know let down panels
A tip for let down panels is only clear half of the ground/mid-coated panel and use the uncleared half for a reference to your colour as you paint, oh and use a larger template for one…not a 4”x6” spray out card
Mike K
Now its a waterborne not water based so its not cut and dry water, keep that in mind.
As far as what they say goes… don’t mix the hardener in the basecoat unless you absolutely need it, it makes any basecoat repair hard (not impossibly just tricky) use 2000 grit for any standard basecoat repairs…I use a 3000 1.5 hvlp at 28-30 PSI….get a #4 ford viscosity cup to make sure the reduction with hb020/040 is properly done I’ve had it a few times that a mix off of smarttrak was a tad too thick making it troublesome to spray before I ordered in my viscosity cup. Use a wet bed for blends it helps for silvers and golds but you can get away without using it…I put it down for just about any blend…you can use the wet bed to check a blend before clear just don’t load it onto the edge of the panel near the original panel. Put the wet bed on and blend over top immediately, orientation coats seem to be fine without it though. first coat of base wet (never had a run)…second coat medium wet and then your drop coat (if you got your coverage most colours thats enough). Not really any major issues on colour matching.
Mike K
i couldnt see from the pictures what did you do about the rubber on the lower bumper? mask it back? remove the piece?
very nice job I like the use of colours and very good layering on the skull…and flames for that matter!
Mike K
Welcome aboard!! I’d love to see some of your work, and from the sounds of it you’ll fit right in. Always good to have another opinion questioning thoeries and bending tech sheets
Mike K
Water in airlines is a fact but as previously stated. I would suggest controlling it if its never been much of an issue in the past then I would suggest doing maintenance on your compressor (new intake filter, oil change)
As the compressor compresses the air, the air heats up from the compression and its a short trip to the tank, which would make that hot too, so that part is normal along with moisture in your airline. As the compressor compresses the [u][b]”humid”[/b][/u] air, moisture is then vaporized with the compression of the air and it will stay vaporized until the air can cool down. Which means you need to run an “aftercooler” of some sort, cheap way is to buy black iron pipe and run it anywhere from 25′-50′ feet out of the tank and then put your moisture trap on that so now all the moisture is condensed (condensation) from the cooling of the air through the piping, and the moisture trap can then actually trap the water. Moisture vapor will bypass your moisture trap and run through your line to your tool if you do not control it in your air delivery system (compressor, traps, driers and lines)
And don’t plug your trap and airline to the end of that, but put a drain valve going down to the ground and run your trap and line off of a separate upside down “T” running off the top of the low point drain valve because all the condensed water will flood your moisture trap so let that run down to the drain valve.
as mentioned earlier there are many diagrams online of how to route your lines and different materials to construct it out of. I hope this helps a little bit and is not too confusing
Mike K
depends on how much paint is on the surface now. 12 mils is max if your at 12 get your sander out… but it all depends on how many paint jobs are under there now. Too much material can make for easy and large stone chips or no door gaps and brittle edges and paint in general :compsmash
If you are going to sand and respray, only sand the clearcoat try not to burn through clear is a good base material to work with.
Mike K
if you painted it a week ago it should be sufficiently dry by now …sand it with 600, let it sit overnight with s little air movement to finish evaporating the solvents and then re-mask it and respray it.
That looks like an excellent finish on it BTW
Mike K
:dnc :dnc :dnc very well put! :clappy :clappy :clappy
Hey ding it was a year or so ago i wanna say 222 and 200…200 was good as I remember. Now im still using BASF but onyx and 98 and 5800 and im still thinking whether I like the dc5800 I really am not hot on the dc98 at all
Not to mention the training involved because our licence requires us to be everything a mechanic is minus brakes.