don prcotor
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I hate the fuzzy look the the sponge tape leaves, i have in the past used the wide tape & sponge tape together, basically back tape the jamb, lay the sponge tape on that, then roll the wide tape back over the sponge tape. Close door. Perfect no edge no fuzzy lines. But thats only for the high pos we work on. 🙂
Try this, use a slower reducer for the base, & slow down when spraying both clear & base. The rp 1.3 tip isn’t exactly for speed, & turn the psi down to 29-32 for both coats. when clearing. The rp isn’t design to be sprayed @ the psi your using.
Since your using a speed clear, u may need to use a slower hardener or reducer as well.Since u have ppg in there now, stick with it. U wont have to go thru the hassle of putting in new equipment. It is easy to use, once u get the hang of it. But try to keep the solvent on hand, just for the fact that if u come across a previous repaired car, u can still have the tinting option, and if your like us, our body shop guys cut n their own parts, they wouldnt play well with the water. & some manufactures like kia, dbc just matches better.
On my gauage imsetmit ro 20 formth control coat, which drops down to 17-18. For some reason, in the traing manual withnall the guns listed with the psi, they wanted sata down from 29 to 25, but that doesnt work. Well it does but it takes longer to dry, thats why my rep told me to bump it backmupmto 29, with the generic gauge i got, imset to 31 to account for thr pressure drop.
[quote=”metalhead” post=31981]So, after a week of spraying with higher pressure my work has looked better than ever. Not really sure if the pressure on the digital data’s is accurate because 29psi sounds like its much higher but, it is working.[/quote] i’m glad it’s working out for you. When i first started the trainer told me to set the sata @ 25psi, it was going on too wet, took for ever for it to dry, or at least the last coat. Die backs were killing me. Then my rep who was also a trainer told me to up it to 29 psi. The difference was unbelievable.
It will sound high considering you probably were spraying solvent around 22-25 psi before. More importantly, don’t worry about how high the pressure sounds as long as the gun is doing its job, is all that matters. Now when the hot weather sets in & the humidity gets higher don’t hesitate to reduce to 30% for faster dry times.
I agree with with ben, i have used ppg dcu2002 clear which is thier top ofnthe line clear on all my personal cars & any that i paint all over.
So if u want good clear your gonna pay for it, not to mention if u want a driveable/show car your gonna want good quailty from start to finish with all your products, then your gonna want to invest in some good show car waxes for that deep gloss shine.
My rep wanted to put some in, i said no after painter123 told me the same thing as paintman said. Plus my guys would totally screw it up, hell they”re barely have paitiance to let it sit for 3 mins before the next coat.
Here’s what i did to help out after haveing a hard time as well with the enviro. If the base isnt dry enough it will pinch. & u need to use some kind of blower to help dry it, unless its like 90-100 in the booth it still needs a lil help. Especially with the side just leting it air dry won’t help.
If your using a sata, they may have told u to set it @25psi, bump it to 29psi. World of difference.
Make sure u r using the correct sealer for the wb, ppg has one for their solvent base, das, and es-xx line for the wb. And make sure u give enough flash time before u jump on it with the base. The reason i say this is cause it will soak in & take forever to cover & dry, the botton sides r usually my wosre area.Certian colors just suck ass on covering as well as drying.
U can reduce to 30% may take a few extra coats, but dries really fast, and u can do this on any color. If u like. I have done this in the summer & when the humity was high works really well.
I usually reduce between 20-30% i find it seems to be the sweet spot.
On tris, reduce the ground coat a lil over 20 this way the white dries faster, still need to wait 10-15 mins before doing the mid coat. This also applies to some some red mets., & red tri coats.
I also found that my white prls were comeing out to white, & figured that one coat ofwhite sealer wasnt cutting it, as it was transperant too. So i will put on a lite coat wait 5 mins, then a full med. wet coat after that, that helped a whole lot.I also use some t492 for those colors i know that take a while to dry. It helps.
Some times, u can hit the bake button for a few mins to help along after the last coat.
Wait the normal 10-15 mins before clearing. You should be able slide your hand with a latex glove on across the panel with no problem, if it drags a lil, its not dry enough.
I also use dc2000 clear with it alot, its a wet on wet clear, air dry. I do have to use dt885 or 95 depending on the amount of pannels, works great since its an air dry clear. U can always use a slower hardner with your one visit clears, it may take a lil longer, but compare that to either buffing or redoing it, & you’ll see that its worth the wait.
Your gonna have to play with it, for the time being you’ll just have to put the “its faster then our solvent” thing out of your mind. The speed will come nce u figure out what works on what days.
Your either putting it on too fast or too wet. One way to tell is when u tag it, if u have wipe marks in it from the tac rag it’s too wet. & make sure u don’t put the control coat on to wet either.
What u could do or try…
1—I use enviro so I’m not sure if the #’s r the same. T492 it hel9 out of 10 times the insurance will get thier way, especailly if the shop is on any program. Best advice, start learning the great art of bs……
We use the carbo red for scuffing everything. That is more like the 3m grey. Cheaper & effective.
We dont wax any thing, well there r a few exceptions, as we dont get paid for it. But we tell the customer that they can wax in 3 weeks. We look at it as their responsiblity.
If we do, we like using the the new turtle wax that u can apply in the sun, dont remember the name.
The enviro has a good match. & in the dbc I use the //L formula. I really hated that color at first.
What u need to do is learn the products u have as in what can u get that does the same thing but cost less. Painting over 400 is okay, takes a lil more, but it can be done, how ever you seal over 320 da which cuts faster………
See here u use a more aggressive paper, but you have to seal , but with sealing, base will cover faster allowing u to get the job done faster, giving the protection needed, & being done right. But if your being forced to stay with the 400, learn to final sand your primer with da, da always gives a finer scratch. Much easier to paint over.There are plenty guys here that use ppg products, including me, & have used some in the past. Your best advantage is to,ask if u want to get ahead. As well as the other products u use in the shop, including equipment. Especially paint guns, if they tell u a gun is crap listen, they have used them all.
Do u see where im going with this. What u need to do is learn how to present the pros & cons..how ever u need to be prepare to back up,your game.
& maybe for the time being maybe play by his game, learn what u can or need from us, buy good equipment as well as paint guns, they really make a difference.One thing is for sure, the old guy will make sure u know your place. One thing u will learn & we all will tell u, yes we always want to do things the right way, but @ times u just can’t weather its a time issue or the boss wants it done a certain way. That will always b the same..
So far this has been an interesting read.
Look, the first thing u need to do is separate your self & the old dude. Your not him, & as jay has pointed out to the op, with practice speed will come. I have one body tech that does a lot of body work with a da, a few that use does it by block. Like ben has said it’s what u feel comfortable with using. Yes we all take a few short cuts here & there, like painting over primer, sand with 400. It can be done, just takes a few more coats. So the best thing to do is not worry about what the old guy does or how much faster he does it. Work @ your pace.I used to paint the same way the old guy does, argued about here when i joined, not saying i was right or wrong, but found out things can be easier buy changing a few simple steps in your work. My life as painter has been so much easier since joining this site. Still learning a few things here & there. Just remember if its suggested to try some thing, it doesnt hurt, if u like it great if not, then try something else.
I don’t know every thing, i just claim i do. :ban?