don prcotor

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  • November 19, 2010 at 7:38 am #25218

    i’ve tried looking it up on my ppg color web. it shows up as a tricoat, and only in waterborne. which may explain why it looks the way it does. water is more vibriant.
    here’s ppg’s brandcode maybe you can cross reference it on your system.
    code 923214
    on my computer, i entered everything else, but i had to leave out the code it self.
    here’s a link on the colorrite, it’s not long but it may help you decide.
    http://www.riderforums.com/showthread.php?t=56096

    November 19, 2010 at 6:51 am #25217

    this is what i do.
    after the repair is done, primer is sanded and ppg can handle 400g easily. i then,
    1-sand everything with a 1000g, not to slick out the clear but just to clean it up(road grit, sap etc.) some times i use 800g too.
    2-use a carbo red scotch pad with 3m scuff it.(expensive ajax) and do everything again, makeing sure i get all the edges well.
    3-wash
    4-if spraying met. i put down dbc500 color blender,(clear basecoat) this helps fill in the fine scracthes so the mets. lay down uniformly. solids colors such as red, i don’t worry about.

    as for the blending of the color, i try not to get anyfurther than a foot in either direction if possible. after tapeing, cover the blend area’s with paper, color door with a couple of coats, pull paper off, then blend the next coat out some, and then finish off a little further past the last blend.
    as for your wrinkleing problem, i will assume that happens after you messed up and are repainting, which if you load up the base that will happen, use a fast reducer or wait longer before repair.

    November 17, 2010 at 6:07 am #25188

    looks good, i’m not sure how you paint a car in 2 1/2 coats, but thats very good coverage for base. how many coats of clear did you put on?
    as for value shades, i have 3 different sealers, white, grey(primer grey) and black.
    and you’ll use 7 different shades to achive max. hideing.
    v1-v4- you’ll mix the white with the gray certain ratio
    v6- you’ll mix the grey and black.

    November 14, 2010 at 12:53 am #25130

    bubbles, usually does mean backpressure, gun needs cleaning. don’t use the infrsonic cleaners, or at least check the gun recomendations. sata dosent’ want you to use one. i use the pps cups, and use a few squirts of thinner through the gun, but it still needs to be broke down for a good cleaning.

    November 8, 2010 at 9:04 am #25061

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=15248][quote=”lild” post=15245][quote=”bondomerchant” post=15239][quote=”lild” post=15237]i was told with water you wait 15 mins. also. i have gotten on it too fast. the only thing that happen was die back.[/quote]
    really wheres the water go then??[/quote]it’s the same when you get a drop of water in the clear, it evaporates. that’s what happens when you add heat. duh.:wak[/quote
    why ya gettin drops of water in ur clear??[/quote]some of us work a little harder than others, and have to sweat our :cens off to make a livin.:whistle: :dnc
    but i don’t know nothin about either one. i just need to change my filter trap.:kofee

    November 8, 2010 at 5:58 am #25055

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=15240]It’s pretty easy to tell when it is ready for clear,it looks and feels dry,and it has a nice matt appearence.If for some reason you clear to soon it will blush.If you have ever used it you would understand it is a non issue,lots of BS concerning waterborne and how bad it is,usually from people who have never used it and from guys who don’t like change.As far as your beliefs that TDS are bullshit…..You do custom big dollar paint jobs,but I bet they are garaged and well taken care off and don’t spend anytime out in the elements.Put one of those jobs outside for a few years up here in Canada where our temps can range from -40F to + 100F and lets see how long it takes for something to happen.[/quote]at first i had problems trying to make it work too fast. but your right, now i know it’s ready when it has the nice smooth flat look. it’s a pretty thing. solvent never looks that good.
    i do know with solvent, after the recoat window, you can lightly scuff and put dbc500 over it and be fine.

    November 8, 2010 at 5:56 am #25054

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=15239][quote=”lild” post=15237]i was told with water you wait 15 mins. also. i have gotten on it too fast. the only thing that happen was die back.[/quote]
    really wheres the water go then??[/quote]it’s the same when you get a drop of water in the clear, it evaporates. that’s what happens when you add heat. duh.:wak

    November 8, 2010 at 5:23 am #25045

    i was told with water you wait 15 mins. also. i have gotten on it too fast. the only thing that happen was die back.

    November 8, 2010 at 4:53 am #25040

    hey i wouldn’t put it past them.:exci

    November 7, 2010 at 11:39 pm #25029

    looks good. very nice. fill in two, bondo’s jealous.
    now mocoke, you know insurance doesn’t let us repair crap that big anymore. but your right, it nice to craftmanship at work.

    November 7, 2010 at 11:35 pm #25028

    you know, your going to get fine by the epa. i mean you could at least let those guys wear shoes. you cheap bas##$@$@.

    can’t wait to see the finished product. and the look on the guys face in the first pi. say’s a lot. like i’m not gett paid enough for this sh!t.
    and in the last, i like how the other points out the mistakes like any good boss will do.
    must of been some runs in that spot.

    November 7, 2010 at 9:57 pm #25027

    you can do like i do with the clear, i keep the clear and hardners in the corner of the booth where it’s not so hot. i agree with the panels being a lot cooler, and had the car be cooler then the temp in the booth. there’s nothing like getting runs first thing in the morning. i also thought of buying a temp gun to montior the heat in the booth. i normally get a 30 degree drop form the booth roof to the top of the car, when bakeing.
    i don’t know if your useing water, but i was told if you ir the clear you have to ir the water base too. but they never told us why.

    November 7, 2010 at 5:20 am #25020

    ppg recomends a min. of 15 mins. before clearing, and before i used a downdraft booth, i waited 15-20 min. in between coats of clear. now i’m down to 3-5 mins. on the fast clear and 5-7 min. on the med. fast clear. 10 mins. on the slow stuff.

    November 6, 2010 at 5:11 am #25000

    are you useing a clean rags? i use microfiber rags and after a while they become saturated with cleaner and will casue fisheyes.
    i agree with you, it has to be something on the cover. and use dx1005 cleaner instead of dx330.

    November 6, 2010 at 4:03 am #24997

    i wish i knew what ya’ll were talkin about.:whistle: i only used dcu, and dc clears for so long. i don’t get to play with other brands, unless it’s ppg econo lines.:S
    i did like dcu2082 clear. cured about in a hr or so. but they took that and my dch70 hardner from me when we switched to water.:cens
    how ever i do like omni’s mc161 clear. the rep belives it’s the old dcu2001.:kofee

Viewing 15 posts - 376 through 390 (of 524 total)