don prcotor
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Secondly disregard what lild said,run your fan wide open and your fluid control wide open.jobs like myself you would be better with a 1.4[/quote]
man that is uncalled for. he ask for a opinon on a 1.3. and i gave it to him. see when i use my 1.3 i have to turn the fan spray to a 8 inch pattern, wide open and i cover half the door on a pass. even though you like a 70% overlap, i like a 50% overlap. and when useing a 1.3 i have to go slower, like you said, it atomize’s the clear more, and i use a high solid clear which require me to go slower on the pases. so compared to my sata 90, and 2000 the 3000 i have to go slower. to the op, when asking for painting insturctions, everyone does it differently and likes different setups. and this is what i like to do with a 1.3, however, if you decide to go with a 1.4, then do like every one else. a 1.4 will put out more, which in turn will allow you to go faster.
now on the iwata gun i used one a few years back, and i thought it really layed the clear down like water. but ran everything so i went back to my sata. plus, my sata doesnt’ use as much clear like everyone here claims. but this gun can put it down like water. if it feels like it. also to the op, i don’t use a filter either. i prefilter it before it goes in the cup. after each job it goes into the gun washer and stays there until the next job. but this is my clear gun. but if you intsist on useing the filter for the cup, put the stem part up into the cup.try claying it first.
this gun is a little tricky. first yes it’s slow. but not as slow as a hvlp. it shouldn’t of have leak fluid, make sure that the control valve is turned in some. and also reset the fan pattern, it can be wide, it’s the only gun that i’ve used that could cover a whole panel in one shot.
as for clear, you have to move slow also, make sure your fan spray pattern is around 8 inches. the psi is fine. you almost have to lay it on really wet. on a side note i wouldn’t use the same gun for baseing and clearing.not did we only answer his question. we also threw in a few suggestions on where to take his date, and not what to do on the date, of course this comes after the tub is painted. 😛
this is so true when they say this stuff sticks to anything they weren’t liein.
plus with the water borne, you have to use wb liners. reg. liners won’t work. for the clear i use my aluminum cup.i know right. i have a 7yr, and new twins. one night we went to the corral, 7yr old got a free meal since she colored a pic. however they wouldn’t give me one. and mine was way prettier.
on the first though. i got ketup on her boobs, she was wearing a white shirt. the last thought i had, was please don’t let me spill ketchup on her. you know God works in mysterious ways.:hij:
you know i thought the same thing about the sizzler. hell i thought i was going to get some later that night.
and howd you know we went to mcyd’s on the second date? :hij:yes i am. my first date with my wife was at western sizzler.
:hij:
i say use non sanding epoxy and do a wet on wet job. and i wouldn’t use high dollar ss paint. go with the cheap stuff.
every day. i don’t cut and buff, i have other guys worry about that. plus, most cars form the factory have some peel to them. i’ve actually had a customer complain that the paint was too smooth and one ask if we could dull the new paint to match the rest of the faded car.
however consitancy is key. i try to get at least one screwed up car a week. damn i your perfect they expect all the time.no. if your going to clear the whole thing, use a grey scotchbrite pad and scotch the whole bumper througly.
the sata is a good gun. when i switch from the sata jet 2000 to the 3000 (hvlp and rp) they both took some use to get too. especially the hvlp. it was my first one. i’ve learned that a hvlp is great for baseing not for clearing (any hvlp)as you found out with a hvlp you have to move really slow with it. it feels like for ever when clearing with it. now for clearing, a rp gun (now this is why i recomend a rp. if your going to make a profession out of this and work for a bodyshop, due to new epa rules national, you’ll be requried to use a rp or hvlp to paint with.) is great to us. it uses less pressure like 30-35 psi, and will lay clear down nicely. you still will have to go slow just not as slow. as for the tip, 1.3 or 1.4 is good. the main thing is what ever gun (brand) you use stick with it. as not all guns spray equally, and some take some real adjustment. once agian you see how to lay down clear with a hvlp, if you feel comfy with it stick with it. also i know your in school, but as you learn trail and error is going to be a common thing.
honestly you just need to start over, and as stated clear the whole thing. plus when you blend any thing, you can not do a stright line tape off. so if you insist on just blending again. tape off the decklid tailights, and quarter panel. don’t tape off any part of the bumper. plus you also need a blender to melt the clear into the old.
your first coat of pearl will go out past the edge of the ground coat. then each coat of pearl will go out past the last coat.
when mixing honda colors you have to have the right code. exp…b92p won’t work, as there are other variants. not with just the code but with the plants that they are made in. so b92 should read b92-a,h,l,c. these letters are corrasponding with the plants which do even though they are the same code, they varay the color some. so if all you got is the first three and don’t know what plant it’s made at, check the 11th digit in the vin. that’s the plant it was made at.
also when useing spray paint, don’t count on it to match, and unforunatelly for you, there’s nothing you can do to make the blend smooth.