MoCoke

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Viewing 15 posts - 196 through 210 (of 668 total)
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  • August 2, 2011 at 4:41 am #32007

    is the body guy mixing the filler and poly together to try and skip a second step of applying a glaze over the repair? perhaps changing the filler brand to a more premium resin might help. i recently began using platinum plus filler and not only do i no longer need to cut with anything below 80 grit, i can actually finish with 180 and higher without the need for polyester glaze.

    August 1, 2011 at 8:00 am #31990

    USC Morton 40 glamour clear :cheer:

    July 30, 2011 at 4:32 am #31964

    looks like it hit wood for sure, its mouth is stuck wide open :lol1

    July 29, 2011 at 4:55 am #31950

    youll need to flatten your clear with maybe 500 grit before u reclear. 10 mins between clear coats is fine for that clear but fast hardner on a complete is a big no no. next time, keep your hand moving and use consistent even passes and youll have no runs

    July 28, 2011 at 12:52 am #31930

    yes, i use solvent debeer in Jersey. but about it being the sister company of valspar think of it as the time when mercedes benz was paired with chrysler 😡

    July 28, 2011 at 12:49 am #31929

    maybe its just me but 95% of the time i can never locate the paint code for vw’s or audi’s.

    July 27, 2011 at 5:57 am #31917

    looks good. will you be spraying the entire car of just the top? i once got a job like this that i told the customer to go get a vinyl top installed on it to cover it instead :whistle:

    July 26, 2011 at 3:14 am #31897

    well i only use it in solvent on everything thats not fleet and the hs clear on a few vehicles. in my opinion its the best paint system ive used and the least expensive. another member here uses it in water and has great things to say about it too

    July 25, 2011 at 5:04 am #31883

    just a tip that i recently discovered is that 3m’s purple paper makes blocking primer so much easier. dont forget to use a guide coat and i like jaysons idea of priming twice.

    July 25, 2011 at 5:02 am #31882

    i havent seen it as many times on GM’s as i have on Fords. i sometimes get a ford code that simply doesnt exist.

    July 25, 2011 at 5:01 am #31881

    hey welcome, have you tried viewing any of the dupont vids on you tube? they might answer some of your questions. here’s a link to one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PrU5yFt6uE

    July 21, 2011 at 10:02 pm #31836

    yea the better solution is to buy a new finish panel

    July 20, 2011 at 5:43 am #31812

    [quote=”Matrix Paint Systems” post=21370][quote=”smooth” post=21355]3 to 4 coats of paint? wow.. im glad ppg has improved that wit their sprectral gray sealers in their nexa auto color line. i cant imagine having to use 3 to 4 coats of base coat. looks real nice tho bud![/quote]

    I would say at least 3 coats would be standard on any red. Are you using a system other than water that covers in less?[/quote]

    exactly, and it really depends on the color of your sealer or undercoat.

    July 19, 2011 at 5:09 am #31802

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=21357]:agree It is half the work to just change the roof from a donor car and you will end up with a better job.Getting experience is one thing but you are coming close to beating a dead horse :deadhorse[/quote]

    surprised no one suggested a case of filler and a mudhog? wouldnt hurt to brush up on your plastic shaping skills :lol1

    July 15, 2011 at 2:41 am #31761

    since u dont care about the old finish, a floor scraper with a new blade works best. no chemicals, heat or eraser wheel needed

Viewing 15 posts - 196 through 210 (of 668 total)