Brian
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Even if it isn’t mobile and I do small parts like the grilles, then I can do those out in a little tent in the back yard. I just wanted to gather some information and see if they are really worth it. I like how it is portable.
Been back to work here now at the school, no one has personally come by to check it out, don’t know if anyone has driven by. The paint booth is all thrown away and the suppllies are gone. I am deciding if I should sell all my stuff or hold onto it for another time.
haha Yea Ben, painter123 said the same thing. I use Duplicolor bedliner, but I have a special process in which the way it is used. I have to spray it on from a distance to get the fine texture, then I use a Nike dri-fit t-shirt which is made from thick nylon. I use armor-all and the tshirt to level out the roughness of the texture instead of sanding it. You can use a cotton t-shirt because the fibers get stuck in the texture as you rub it down. Sanding texture with finer grits never really has worked out for me. I developed this process through working on my dashes with texture matching. A few steps of light texture and armor all rub down gets it nice, even and smooth.
Yes charlie I did use pro-air, awesome clear for me and my situation.
I have followed your videos on youtube, you do some nice work, we just need you to get away from the aersol primers! 😛
9 times out of ten, the first thing i do is scuff the whole bumper with presta scuff stuff and a gray pad, I don’t know what happened here :cheers
[quote=”pierceg” post=26122]You made a mistake, you primed on unsanded areas, then sanded the primer into the panel. So some of the primer is not bonded mechanically, it’s just hanging there.
The moral of this story is don’t work harder than you have to but make sure you get the minimum amount of work in at the same time.[/quote]hard to make out from the pictures, surrounding areas were scuffed, its not biggie if primer overpsray gets on unsanded clear, thats what sanding is for 😉 It all gets sanded off, look at the pictures of the primered areas in the booth.
Using iwata lph 400 with a 1.3 for base and tekna 1.3 for clear.
search “nexson” on youtube, I have a channel, fully explaining my booth, with a video.
white specs in black paint and black specs in white paint. If I still have them after the second time, they are staying the paint, who knows where they come from, but they come from somewhere. I think this might be the reason why some whites are still single stage from factory?
next time just seal it and clearcoat it, she will never know the difference and be just as happy :rofl
hell, for free, I would paint over that dent in the driver’s fender too! nice job and nicer shop!
maybe it has to do with fc710 being so hard, but at any rate i am going to pick up some new foam pads, mine are a bit worn.
[quote=”5LEater” post=25457]i use the 3M 1 2 3 system mostly, but i have found that being more thorough with your number 1 (rubbing compund) firstly before going to glaze will help to get majority of your swirl marks out. When you go to your number two glaze/cutting compound, i like to try to take as much or all of the glaze off the panel using the polisher rather than wiping with a microfiber until I go to wax. Keeping your microfibers that you use for Compound/Glaze/Wax seperate, and in clean containers will also help big time as those microfibers pick up dirt and garbage that scratch the surface of what you just polished. I do however use the meguiars swirl mark remover after my #2 sometimes, and really like the way it took the remainging swirlies out, shines up really nice too. Clean polishing pads are a must too as the get dirt in them too, which will just keep adding more scratches when your polishing.[/quote]These are all good tips I never thought if, seems as though as soon as I wipe it, it leaves a scratch. I always used just one rag. I will wash out the pads and use seperate rags, thanks for the tips!
damn pictures don’t work.
Yea, i see trash in factory jobs, but I don’t see solvent pop and fisheyes :silly:
because ding, these grilles become a part of the flow of the car when painted, they need to be dibbed when painted so they don’t stand out as being painted. See now how it really just isn’t a grille and becomes an essentialy body panel of the car.
[img]http://www.heeltoeauto.com/upgrade_store/image.php?type=T&id=63722[/img]