Chris
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Without casting any aspersions on the previous posters I disagree. I use Cromax (Dupont) and their 1K primer is part of their approved methods. We use it out of a gun rather than a can but it is more than capable of hiding scratches as coarse as P180 although we do finish to P320. It’s fast, sands easily and, if used according to the TDS works just fine. We do use 2K primers for bigger repairs but for small ones the 1K has always worked for us.
I’ve discussed its’ use with the rep and he has no problems with it at all, in fact told me that he uses it himself on restoration projects. Obviously, discuss with your Sikkens rep and go with his recommendation.
Interesting stuff, Ben. What you do is three separate trades here. Panel beater, spray painter and mechanic. Guess that’s the beauty of working in a small shop, eh?
Nice tidy, clean shop. 😉
You can’t do it. All that isocyanate laden air has to go outside and that means that you’re taking air from inside the shop and sucking cold air from outside. Only way is to have the booth intakes outside and then heat the air before it goes into the booth. Or, more heaters in the shop. Either way is expensive, I know because I have the same problem here.
Hard to say without seeing it.
I don’t try to blend each little repair, rather try to keep the repairs as far from the edges as possible and then blend basecoat towards the edges (in this case just the two sides) without going all the way. The edges will then be the original colours and you won’t see the gradual change towards the repair(s). Not possible on every job, I know, but better than having to paint the sides as well if you can get away with it.
We live in a world of hope that there is such a thing as a “perfect” match, Martin. Just about every job should be blended, and then cleared right across the panel.
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=33244]
Any air gunsa mini guns out there ? Another painter next door has one he got free with a primer kit about ten years ago and it still gets him great results,just thought the air gunsa may be cheaper,i know there part of iwata now.[/quote][quote=”Andy T” post=33248]
I don’t know about Air Gunsa. I know the AZ3 is available in a 1.0 but I don’t know how suitable it’d be as a mini gun.[/quote]Andy, I’d say the AZ3 is way too big to work effectively as a mini, or even midi, gun. The 1.0mm setup is more for very thin coatings, I’d think.
However, I’ve also been looking for a decent smaller gun in RP/compliant setup and saw the AZ40 HTE. Seems to fit the bill, on paper at least and prices excluding VAT are fairly attractive.
First coat runs are as Ben & Andy say. Needs to be wet, but only just. Also note what Ben says about temperature – paint & panel need to be matched. Cold panel = runs, cold paint = runs. The other thing is that it takes a moment for the first coat to flow across the base. You can think that it isn’t wet enough and go for another pass which will then be too much.
[quote=”Xchaser” post=33221][quote=”81Malibu” post=33219]My main concern is how well will the gun hold up over time. I know when I pick up my SATA it’s going to work 99% of the time. When I pick up my Finex most of the time it doesn’t. I tried an Iwata a few months ago and it sprayed excellent. My problem is that it looked a lot like my Sharpe inside. Years back I did use a Star gun that looked like a SATA jet90 and it sprayed just as well. I wouldn’t mind trying one of them again.[/quote]
Can you remember what model star gun it was? Just out of curiosity :cheer:[/quote]
Probably S106. Like this?
[img]http://www.powerhouseauto.com.au/images/spray%20gun.jpg[/img]
One of the reasons I have a heap of Star guns. They just work. Every time.
Oops.
I’ve had the same problem. Less often with genuine OEM parts and more often with cheaper parts that are made in Asia and contain a percentage of recycled plastic. The paint simply will not stick! I understand that the problem is that the plastic is porous and the mould release agent gets into the pores.
I use Dupont products and went to them with the problem. They gave me 901R/907R Plastic Primer. Not sure if it’s available where you are but this stuff is magic. Needs special pre-treatment, heating to 60 deg C, then wash with water and soap and degrease with alcohol based cleaner. Scuff and paint, the primer is suitable for wet-on-wet so some time saved, or you can lightly sand after 2 hours at 20 deg C.
Solved the problem and now use it whenever there is any doubt about the plastic.
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=33130]What you have to be careful about is ensuring you mix enough ‘modified’ hardener to cover the complete requirements of the job. That, or make absolutely sure you mark out your ratios of the two hardeners so you can recreate the ‘mix’ if you need more. You can’t/shouldn’t do an ‘eyeball’ mix. This might lead to a slower hardened underneath a faster hardener mix.
It’s critical not to use the hardeners from two different paint manufacturers, or even paint systems too. All hardeners should be from the same manufacturer and system.
You can also mix different speeds of reducers, too.[/quote]
Agree 100%. Even if the paint and hardeners are the same technology, mixing different brands can have some unexpected results. :headsmack:
15-20m hose in the booth? That’s way long. I have 9m hose and have no problem reaching any point on the vehicle, even using only one wall outlet.
Pressure loss over this length is 3-4psi only. Does depend on the gun though – some guns have more internal back pressure than others.
Best way is to check all your guns with a gauge at the gun and make up a chart so you know what pressure to set at the wall. My chart is on the wall, right next to the regulator.
Yep.
[IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss334/cprscc/Pic_1106_453.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss334/cprscc/Pic_1106_459.jpg[/IMG]
They need a UV protectant at the end or they’ll not last very long.
Agree. I do lots of repairs to new cars and been surprised to see how many have been done before I got them. Bars particularly – sometimes even have the reject sticker on the back where they didn’t pass and have been sent back to be re-done.