nick
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yes i have done that twice in the last 15 years, both times with Spies clear.
The accelerator and hardener tins were very similar at one time.
Gun wash worked for me and plenty of cloths, it is a messy job but it has to be done.
Do not be lulled into thinking you have it cured with excessive heat i tried that and it came back a month later flat as a pancake and all marks off the leaves from the trees, and it wiped off after a month with gun wash thinner
[quote]i use that 3m foam tape,[/quote]
Agreed, i have been using foam tape that long i honestly have forgotten how to do it any other way :blush: .
Been using it for nearly 20 years now.
3m make the best one i have tried many different one’s and have always reverted back to 3m
It can lift on the corners if pulled to tight.
When it is applied too tight it will most certainly lift as soon as it has some heat on it.
3m had a really good patent on that tape for many years, people tried to come up with simliar product’s but they never caught on. 3 m must have made a lot of money out that tape.
i buy 5 boxes at a time gets the price down a bit
[quote=”timbo” post=15679]:clappy
Good one Stone![/quote]Ditto lol
[quote=”MoCoke” post=15626]thats really neat. the mirror cover is rigid, how does it perform on flexible plastics?[/quote]
Very well it just flexs all the more.
I did a bumper and a destroyed headlamp last week at it worked great.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15625]Damn, I really like that. If you don’t mind me asking what does that thing go for?[/quote]
Hi Ryan
It really works well i cant believe how strong the repaired area is.
In USD it would cost $468.00, that money could be made back pretty quick, you would not have any fear of repair failure.
[quote=”dcturcotte” post=15605]Personally I think comparing different waterborne brands is almost like comparing apple to oranges, where solvent systems were a lot more similar to one another.[/quote]
This is a good point take Lesonal WB basecoat for instance you cant wet flat any imperfections in the base .
If you do the base will go to mush :cens
Where as when i sprayed spies WB any imperfections could be flatted out with wet and dry with a little panel wipe.
Lesonal is a real pain if you need to flat the base it has to be done dry.
I use lesonal spray can primer and have never had a problem, their data sheet says that it can be overcoated with WB basecoat.
See link, 6th data sheet down
http://www.lesonal.co.uk/lesonal/uk/Products/Pages/TDSOverview.aspx
[quote]you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first[/quote]
I have always kinda disagreed with this theory,
Using water reduces the cut of the compound, as adding water to the application just thins your compound, also leads to more mess.
But i am open to why adding water would help ??
I am aware Farecla also have the total dry use compound, witch may lead the consumer to think that other compounds in the range required to be used wet.
But it probably just another angle to launch and promote yet another product.
I used G3 liquid and paste for many years without adding water, and had no problems
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=15387][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15385]Try and finish it out with some P3000 trizac paper. Also hit each spot twice instead of once.
Are you using foam or wool pads?[/quote]
Thats good advice! Try Ryans method. It seems to work good for me. I am using farecla Total.[/quote]
I totally agree.
I dont use Trizac though, i do use p2500
[quote]Also hit each spot twice instead of once[/quote]
This very very important
First time to take the flatting marks out
second time to keep them away, this is where you will be going wrong
[quote=”timbo” post=15310]nice..what are the details on yr and model? :huh:[/quote]
the make is Austin
the year is 1948
Not sure of the exact model :blush: , it’s a bit before my time
thanks guys.
One of my guys has excellent finesse when it comes to these big repairs on thin metal, it took a lot of care not to over stretch that already stretched quarter.
cool as lol i have painted a few wierd and wonderfull things but never a full size plane
great thread :clappy
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=15214]I’m on PPG Deltron Global, and am waiting at least 10 mins between base coats, and a minimum of 15 min before clear, but usually longer (around 45 min).
10 min before clear is pushing it. I have heard of other painters doing it, but I wouldn’t like to risk it (for the sake of 5-10 minutes).
During this past winter, I had a lot off issues with runs in the clear (on the second coat). I had my booth temp at 22-26 degrees C, but what I found out was that my panel temperature was much cooler than anticipated.
To solve the issue, in cold weather, I ended up waiting 30 mins between coats of clear, and invested in a handheld infra-red thermometer that I use to read the panel temp (got it on Ebay for $50 and is excellent!). Also works well when needing to ascertain the panel temp when IR curing fillers – especially for plastic parts that can easily melt/distort if they get too hot.
Keep in mind that the panel temps in the booth will be several degrees cooler on the bottom of the car as comared to the sail panel and the roof. I also bring my clear (sealed in containers, not activated) into the booth when I first start laying base so it comes up to booth temperature. That, of I’ll heat the clearcoat container in a bucket of 75 degree warm water (yep, I use the thermometer to check that temp too!).
Cheers,
Sime[/quote]45 mins thats pretty long what do your data sheets state, the norm is usually 20-25 tops, but i supose it depends on how wet you lay your base and how much air movement your booth has.
i would be a little concerned at leaving my base for 45 mins, during the winter i keep my clear above the heater in the mixing room, make’s a big diference.
Also when metal temp is low during the winter i may pre heat the car in booth, yea the winter months are pita where vehicle body repairs are concerned cost me twice as much for gas compared to the summer months.
[b]spies data sheet 10-15 mins flash off recomended.[/b]
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/sph/SpiesHecker/293_07.pdf[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15159]Lesonal is far from what we consider a cheap product over here. I have used quite a bit of Lesonal Nick and find it to be a very good product. Great value imo. We have some real cheap and shitty clears sold in the states.
BTW that that Mitsubishi looks good!;)[/quote]
Lesonal is very cheap here compared to the big boys like spies, dupont, and nexa
Jim how long do you let final base flash for, never had a problem flashing for ten mins, i always though the recomended 20 was a bit long.
For instance flash for 20 or more on a porous bumper and i have seen lifting problems with the clear as the base was to dry, particular on new ford bumpers.
this type
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/6970.jpg[/IMG]
there is nowt wrong with cheaper clears,compared to spies, dupont, nexa, my clear is very cheap but it holds out does not drop and gives a good build.
And it cures lol you cant mark it with your thumb the following day like you can with some H.S. clears, and it is 420 compliant.
From the gallery just painted obviously not been buffed, and my clears do hold out before anyone says lets see it in a years time. I live in a very small community so usually get to keep an eye on the vehicles i have repaired.
The clear i use is Lesonal Akzo’s cheaper brand
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/l200/osclear.jpg[/IMG]