All depends what kind and brand of clear u put on it.. some buff better after a few days and some are hard to buff the next day and some don’t buff at all..
another excellant job completed :clappy
Good job lild..I can see u must of used the 3085 hardner in the clear as nothing else makes that clear that nice..:whistle:
try a 1.3 in the base maybe
excellent work ryan maybe i should sub my painting out to you..
if u start ur sanding to buff with 400 ur going to take to much mill build off the clear unless u have 4 coats on and then its going to break down over time..
when a platic welder is bought should get one with the different settings (temp) for different plastics as different plastics have a different melting point and if u use to much heat on some of them they become brittle and not enuff heat then won’t bond properly.. Just my 2 cents worth… I plastic weld were ever possible then use the fusor (red usually) to finish it off and have never had a issue doing them this way.. If u don’t v or u groove the plastic before welding or bonding you loose strength in the repair and also there is a good chance it will ghost on u..
i also have just demo’d the clean sheet sand paper and it is very good stuff..If u don’t have people that are in the habit of changing the paper every 30 secs just because it is worth the money..
u should plastic weld those cracks:whistle:
Nice work Ben. Looks like that autowave is working out for you and looks like it a pretty nice system.
wonderful job done.. that turned out really nice
rustoleum is pretty cheap i think..:whistle:
some no name da i bought for $19 it worked fine for 30 seconds then it all came apart on the hood i was sanding and ended up spending a couple hours repairing the hood
what ever it takes to pay the bills.. how come the turds always come out the cleanest and slickest?:dnc
i think the company is run by that insurance company as they will recommend some other shop if they get to many supplements or don’t like their pricing for a job…which i do not agree with…