Richard
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Well being someone that has been doing this for a little while (7 years) and is also going to school for the other side. (Auto Mechanics and Technology.)
I can tell you they are two very different scenarios.
On one hand the Mechanics side is very in depth. Meaning it requires a lot of book smarts to know how to properly diagnose and repair things.
But it is very “Book Smart” oriented, meaning anybody with the right knowledge (Book) can do it. It is very step by step. There are very few variables.
For the most part there is only one way to do anything. There is only one way to replace a head gasket. There is only one way to replace a radiator.
Thus you can provide a step by step guide, and anybody with common sense to follow direction can do it.Where as the paint and body side of it is just the opposite.
There is no one way to do anything. There is no guide. it is a skill, and it takes lots of experience to know how to correct an issue as it arises.
And there are millions of variables. If something goes hay wire… there is no book that says “Righty tighty, lefty loosey” for auto body.
There is some information out there that can give you general idea. Mostly all written by the companies that made the products themselves.
And have been doing this for decades. And even then, it’s all “Theory” and it’s all pretty much a guessing game.
You pretty much have to figure it out on your own, or find someone that may have possibly had your exact problem for suggestions.There is no one way to paint, there is no one way to do body work.
Everyone kind of does it a little different. Some better then others. But there is no guide. There is no step by step.I was reading awhile back that something like 87% of people that go to school for mechanics actually end up going into that field.
But only something like 48% of people that go to school for Autobody/paint actually end up doing autobody or paint.Sure it is probably highly do to even many people that do complete their autobody/paint courses. End up seeing that the money isn’t particularly there.
Or that even with an education, they still don’t have a clue on how to do their job. Also education or not… This industry you start on the bottom.
Nobody is going to put their business on the line because you have a piece of paper… You’ll likely start sweeping floors, or sanding bondo.You think any piece of paper gives you respect in this field? You’re wrong.
Most people probably don’t even try just for that aspect… They come out of school all cockey, just to get kicked to the ground. told that their piece of paper doesn’t mean shit.
Book Smarts in the paint/body field is just a start. Having that alone won’t get you anything.
So I guess in closing, you could just say that the Mechanics side is Book Smarts. Whereas the Paint and body side is a Skill, or an Art. if you want to call it that.
Not everyone can do it. and not everyone can be taught.
And lets also note the fact that pretty much all Auto Body Tech’s do just about everything a mechanic does.
And virtually no Mechanic does what a body/paint tech does.The claim is do to a different static charge the metallic settles differently.
Painted on the car, or hung in front while doing the car I’ve never noticed a problem.
Try Plain ol’ Cheap Paper Towels. The less quilting, and less fluffy = Cheaper the better.
They don’t leave lint when prepping like those POS blue Shop towels.:welc
I’d hit it. 😆
Hey, someone had to say it before Ding did! :pcorn:
:welc
Trust me, we’ve all had our share of disasters.
There’s no such thing as a perfect paint job.“Being a good painter isn’t just about putting the Materials on the car, it’s about knowing how to fix it when it starts to slide back off.”
Sorta Looks more to me like it’s a very mild case of Mottling. (Putting it on too wet, allowing small amounts of Metallic to float together.)
Maybe a combination of too light on a early coat, too wet on the last coat.There’s a very fine line between too light, and too wet, but you’ll get a hang of it.
Remember it’s not clear coat, you’re not trying to achieve any sort of gloss when shooting Base.
Either way I think he did a good job. I’ve seen pro’s do worse. (I won’t name names, but you know who you are!)
“Should” be able to cut and buff that right out without an issue.:welc
Welcome aboard! :welc
Not if you do it right, it will actually strengthen it.
What are you welding with?If you do a cool mig weld (Lowest settings you can do and still achieve a proper weld, with only mere seconds per weld) And you stop and let it cool between holes (Or leap frog around to holes that are at a distance) you’ll be fine.
You can also use some welding putty to control where the heat goes just as extra insurance.Although welding can warp stuff to shit, it can also prevent it from happening by strengthening the surrounding metal.
For instance if something is oil canning like a son of a bitch, stitch a X into it, and it won’t move any more.One thing I would say though, is I’m seeing some pitting in your metal.
If those holes are oxidized and thin surrounding them, you’ll have a hell of a time not burning through.
You can usually aid this with stacking, but you have to be extremely careful. Sometimes you’re just better off patching or replacing.Little cut and buff sounds like all you need.
But yeah, the LPH can be a little slow for some Clears.Use plain old kitchen Paper towels.
The cheaper, (Less fluffy designs) the better.Oh and you’re technically supposed to let it flash off completely for at least 20-30 minutes before shooting.
May not be that they’re too slow, instead that you’re pushing them too fast.Yup, UC35 is pretty good stuff.
I’ve cut through it before buffing too early though. Like said I would at least give it a full day. If not more.
You clearly didn’t do this one, That picture whore Sam isn’t in any of the pictures.
I question rather it is even your shop… :huh: