Richard
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Looks good, he get the wood grain painted on?
Welcome aboard.
I got tired of dealing with the expensive 3m stuff too… was costing too much, and I wasn’t getting the cutting speed I wanted/needed.
I switched over the Meguires Mirror Glaze line.
I like their 85 and 105 for heavy/fast cuts.
I’ve been meaning to get some 205 polish too.As of right now I’m still using up my 3m Glazes and polishes after the Megures #85.
And best of all for a gallon of the meguires stuff, it costs about the same as a quart of the 3m compounds.
Think a gallon of the Meguires 85 Diamond Cut. Was like $48 considering I was paying like 39 for a quart of ultra cut.
And the stuff doesn’t smell bad either. 😉
I’m no pro with Detail work like Han though. I personally hate doing the stuff. :S
Looks real nice Bondo, And glad to hear the owners were happy with it. Even with all the masking lines in the rear and the jambs and what not. 😉
Looks good.
I assume they aren’t making you jamb them?
You make a decent profit off of converting them to taxi’s?Your link was getting cut off. Here ya’ go.
That’s entirely up to you.
We can’t judge for you, like all the painters already pointed out to you the front Bumper, Rockers, and handles don’t match either.
But we also tend to “Notice more” than the general consumer.
Hell we’ve seen stuff come out of other shops that looked absolutely butchered, (Yes Bondo, talking about you.) But the owner was tickled pink over the job.Is it more off then I would be willing to except? Judging by the poor picture. Yes.
Is it more off than the butt match a typical shop would do? Nope. (I’ve seen way way WAY worse pass their standards.)$370 is about what a butt match Bumper is worth.
Do you deserve a Blend up the quarters for $370? Nope.They probably could have got it closer if they spent a little more time and attention on their spray outs.
Butt matching isn’t exactly a science, it’s an art. There are just too many factors. (Color, Mix, age, Fade, Substrate Material, film build, Static, and even Shooting technique, Just to name a few.) Like I said a Computer can’t even perfectly butt match paint.
There just plain and simple is no guarantee on butt matches. There isn’t a painter here that wouldn’t prefer to blend onto the next panel.
But Insurance companies don’t like paying for it. And nor do customers.Hell to do a proper blend and clear on the quarters of that car you would have to do the whole quarters and all the way up the roof and down the other side. You’d end up doing just as much work as basically painting a 1/4 of the car simply for a perfect match. and that is if you can get away with not doing the trunk lid. (So you can see why nobody likes paying for it.)
So basically even if you do demand they redo it. There is no way you’re guaranteed any better of a result.
You want it done right, get it blended onto the quarters. That is your only guarantee of a virtually identical match.
Yep, they all pretty much hit the nail on the head.
I guess the question is just how far off is it?
I’m guessing it’s not too far off since only the flip is off.You may want to go look at the brand new audi’s.
If you look closely, with metallics the plastic bumpers rarely match perfectly, there’s just far too many variables on painting over the plastics in comparison to the metals.If you feel yours is just way worse than the typical car, then I’d suggest you get it blended into the quarters.
Even the best painters with the best matching equipment can’t get a perfect butt match all the time.In this industry blends are your friends. But quite a few insurance companies straight up will not pay for a blend panel, so it puts a lot of painters between a rock and a hard place…
Yep, I agree.
The CVI doesn’t put down a nice hard pattern, the pattern is a little too small, and a little too speckley surrounding the pattern. (Little too heavy in the center, doesn’t atomize very well on the outside edges.)
I wasn’t too impressed with the HVLP cap on Base, And although with the Tech cap on clear it seemed to put down a lot more material than my iwata’s the pattern is so small that you have to move so fast you can’t really judge the settling of the product. Which made running it easy for me.
I found that giving a little less overlap helped me considerably. It’s just such a heavy yet small pattern.All in all, not a bad clear gun, definitely works. And you can get an awesome job out of it.
But not one of my favorites.It does lay sealers real nice though. 😉
I know that Many Etch/Wash primers say that Fiberglass is a compatible substrate.
But can anyone explain to me why an acidic etch primer would be remotely beneficial over a gel coat?
I mean I can’t see it being a bad thing. But at the same time I can’t see it providing any better adhesion.I mean yeah, it also states that an etch primer can be used over OEM Substrates. But none of us are using it over that either. And in all honesty, I can’t remotely see how the acidic primer would remotely increase adhesion on either substrate.
My personal opinion is they tell you this so they can sell more product.
There is absolutely nothing in an Etch/Wash primer that I can see that would remotely increase adhesion to an OEM or gel coat substrate…As far as I can see, Epoxy is good insurance.
Is Epoxy better than a Poly or Urethane? Perhaps, it does retain a better Shear strength meaning it does provide more adhesion. Not required, but good insurance. I would just give it plenty of time to set up.
But in all honesty as long as you seal over your poly, you shouldn’t have any problem.At the same time Gel coats on our Automotive Panels are typically always Polyesters, And Urethanes provide a higher sheer strength then a Polyester Gelcoat. A product can only be as strong as its substrate right?
I think this whole topic is highly debatable.
But in all honesty, I Think all of the above will work.
I would either go straight over it with a poly then seal. Or I would go with a fast cure Epoxy Hybrid before my poly. Either or.
Yet you’re still using that expensive ass clear. 😉
Looks awesome Han.
Fiberglass is probably the easiest thing to paint, because all you need is mechanical abrasion.
No Rust protection, no Adheision promoter. Just plain and simple mechanical bond.I usually hit it with 120 grit (Just for the speed) and throw Evercoat 4:1 on it. (I wouldn’t go that course if you weren’t using a poly like 4:1 though.)
If there’s any damage of course that is where the problem with fiberglass comes.
Once the glasses integrity is failing you have to completely remove out the damage, strip the gelcoat off about 20% exceeding your damage, and then relay new glass, and re-gelcoat/Filler the repaired area.Get er’ done!
It shows Ding. :lol1 :lol1 :rofl :rofl
Poly – Devilbiss FLG3 (1.8 – 2.2 Tip)
Primer – Sharpe SGF98 1.5 Tip, Devilbiss FLG3 1.8 Tip
Sealer – Devilbiss CVI HVLP 1.4 Tip, Sharpe T1-CG 1.4 tip
Base – Sharpe SGF 98 1.4 Tip (I’ve tried many different base guns, and I just like the pattern on this POS.)
Clear – Iwata LPH400, Devilbiss CVI Trans-Tech 1.4, Sata RP 1.3
Worthless POS: Devilbiss Starterline. (Biggest waste of money ever.)