Richard
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Chicks Dig Wood. B)
Wonder what the first gun is… That thing really hoses it on. Especially for that huge ass distance he has… A RP with a 1.8 tip? :woohoo:
Where’s Teri? Come on, I was all Excited when I saw you were posting a picture… At least until I noticed it was all you ugly Mugs… What a let down. :woohoo: :exci 😛 :silly:
I keed, I keed. :lol1[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]i just bought 2 red ones and got about 2 weeks out of each of them. they are dryrotted right out of the package. from now on i will only buy the goodyear hoses. they seem to hold up alot longer. i used to have the lightweight flexeel ones. they are great for some things but i dont like them in the shop because they twist and loop around your feet so easy. they are alwys in the way somehow. i have one airline i made at my old job about 10 years ago and its still like new of course it was made of low psi aeroquip hose. the 50 foot line probably cost my old employer $400 but its mine now!! :P[/quote]The stainless braided line to boot?
I’ll bet he cried when he noticed you took it. :lol1To be honest, I’ve had a few good years go out on me to…
But I use good years for my 1/2 inch line in the shop… But it doesn’t see nearly as much chemicals as my spray line. So they seem to be holding up fine.Looks good. Welcome aboard.
Sweet, Bring it by. I’ll even help you unload it. :whistle:
What kind of hoses are they?
I’ve always had that problem with Rubber hoses around the Chemicals.Now for my spraying hose. I use a PVC/PVC coated hose…
It has held up longer than any of the other hoses so far.Only thing I dislike about the PVC coated hoses is how they react to shop temperatures.
Too hot and they’re super soft and flexable.
Too cold and it’s like lead pipe and won’t flex for shit.
Which really makes working with it, and even rolling it up fun…[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]Bondo talked ya into fornicating a sheep last night didnt he. :exci 👿 :P[/quote]Yep, Bondo Trailered your Mom in last night. :exci :exci :whistle: :stoned
Well Jayson, I’ve sprayed a little bit of everything with my LPH400-LX and it sprays everything pretty damn good to be honest.
I think the caps are just minor tweaking to achieve the “Ideal” results.You have to give to take, and no gun works perfectly for everything.
My ol’ SGF98 can shoot damn near anything nice. I sort of consider it my universal gun. I wouldn’t think twice before grabbing it for anything. But I have basecoat, and clearcoat guns that can out do it.
But I don’t consider them my universal guns because they’re more my “Specialty guns” and they work better for their particular purpose.But I like to use my LPH400-LX for Clears, and Solid colors. Never had a problem, and it does a good job. But I have better guns for metallics. So I use them instead. Not to say it wouldn’t get the job done.
This whole post has reminded me just how many guns I have… and how many of them I don’t use, Especially considering how much I paid for some of them… Wow. I belong in the loony bin… :wak
Yeah.
I’ve never been big on the Whole buy the cap only scam.
Just to buy the cap you’re looking at half the cost of the gun which is ridiculous in my opinion.Last time I looked at the cap. they were like $87 for most the colors.
Which is a hard price to beat.
But damn, I still think for just a cap that is crazy. :wakI know a shop that basecoats all of the jambs disassembled. then assembles it. Bases the rest of the car, goes over the base in the jamb again then clears the whole thing assembled.
Sort of been debating on trying that method.Hell where it is a solid. and no stripes.
The panels were take offs and are already proven to fit without any additional work.
I would mix up a whole gallon, Blast the whole shell disassembled.
Blast the doors and fenders off. And do the car in pieces…No lines. And come on, Bondo’s done many cars in pieces. he’ll get a match. as long as the cheap ass mixes everything at once.
Welcome to the forum.
[b]Doright wrote:[/b]
[quote]I have checked out all three products the only one to post the results of the testing is Rust bullet.The only reason a company would do so would be to get sell there product to the military like the Navy for there ships Iron ships constant salt water spray = RUST
The only product that comes close to Rust Bullet is Waster why would you not want the best coating possible on a restoration? :wak[/quote]
The real question is what do you define as the best coating?
I haven’t personally used Rust bullet.
But in all honesty. I’ve found Industrial Enamels that work just as good as Por15.
Lets also note that Epoxy has passed all of these tests. it was originally developed for the bottom of ships.
These companies get you with advertising.
And you can use their advertising in your favor.
But I’ll be honest. The products aren’t all they claim, in fact I wouldn’t claim they are even remotely better than basic epoxy.
That’s not to say in certain situations I wouldn’t choose it over Epoxy.But my point is don’t get over sucked into it.
I did. And in all honesty, in the end all it did was cost me more money then it had to.And yes. Por15 is a real pita. Yes it can cover rust. But that is the only thing it likes to cover… You can peel that stuff off of anything that isn’t treated with Metal prep.
Which is sort of asinine in my opinion, just because nobody is going to be covering absolute rust… If something is completely pitted 100% chances are it’s too far gone to fix.