Richard
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You see the kind of stuff you’re teaching these people Bondo? :woohoo:
I think he said he uses a ceramic mixing board.
I use a Ceramic tile glued to a board with a handle so I don’t have to worry so much about it breaking. (as much)
Used to use onion sheets. But when you go to mix your filler and tear out half the book. It gets old.
Don’t like plastic mixing boards because if you’re too late they’re a pain to clean.
If any gets dry on my tile. I take a putty knife and scrape it off.You’re really not suggested to mix on a porous surface.
They say it absorbs the solvents/resins from the filler.As far as different color hardeners?
I’ve only got an identical mix once. otherwise it is always quite obvious between layers.
And to be honest color and layers doesn’t really matter. it’s all about rather it is level enough before you’re hitting the surrounding surfaces.Guide coat is your friend.
Btw :welc
Richard
Already suggested a fiberglass hood to the owner. Or a bond-able scoop.
Actually I use a 6 inch Strip disk on my aircat. It’s not bad. Lot faster than 80 grit on 7″ disc.
Lot more economical to. These things will go a lot longer than you think if you use them correctly.
Fastest mechanical stripping I’ve used yet. Other than Abrasive blasting. So we’ll call it the fastest, cleanest method.Tears paint off in an instant. goes through bondo like you wouldn’t believe. Seam sealers. All of it. nothing stops it. except edges. Edges really mess these things up if you don’t make sure it is rotating away from the edge.
I did a full door and fender in what like 15-20 minutes.
Go pick up a 6 inch 3M Strip disk at Wally world out of the household tool departments.
Cost like 6-7 bucks a piece or like 8 bucks for a dually.
Looks like this:
[img]http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/images/38strip.jpg[/img]Give it a try. You’ll like it. 😉
In my opinion these are even better quality than their expensive/tiny ass roloc’s they sell in the paint stores.
Just because I think the size and thickness, increases the durability and longevity of the product.Richard
Just admit that the only reason you wanted to see it is because you wanted me to go pull it out of the damn box… :laugh:
And it’s fiberglass.
The Hood:
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/66Stang/Hood201.jpg[/img]The Scoop
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/66Stang/Hood203.jpg[/img]The Back
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/66Stang/Hood202.jpg[/img]This hood is going to be a nightmare though.
Although it visually doesn’t look terrible. it appears to have been walked on or had something heavy sat on it.One side of it has about a 1/4″ deep by 1 foot wide by two foot long dent.
It would be an easy fix with Filler but because I have to graph a scoop to the hood I think it is going to suck.
Because if I graph it as is one side of the scoop is going to sit a 1/4 inch lower.I technically have four of these hoods in my shop… I guess I could use one of the other decent ones and just save this one for another project.
Or I could just force the owner to buy a fiberglass hood with the Shelby scoop on it. 😆
But then I’d have to deal with a cheap half assed fiberglass hood. and it would probably take less time just to graph this POS to it…- AuthorPosts