Richard Read
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I keep reading about people saying that a filter/seperator at the compressor output is no use. But my own experience – although in a DIY environment – goes against this. The water collects in the at compressor filter/seperator and I get nothing whatsoever in the filter/seperator regulator further down the line. When air is compressed inside a vessel and it is released from a small orifice and vented to a low pressure environment it cools down rapidly. I learnt this at work as we make high pressure air systems. So I say put the filter/seperator at your compressor and keep your pipes clean.
scoobycarl, is the surging more like the gauge reads say 40 PSI then when you pull the trigger it drops to 30 and stays there? Or is it that you pull the trigger and it rises then falls?
Thanks. I was wondering if one was kind of thicker as it came out of the gun. I’m using an AirGunsa AZ3 HTE2 with 1.3mm tip which people on here have said puts out a really good finish.
EDIT: that is my main gun. For this job as it’s a set of wheels I will be using a mini gun, Kestrel/Deltalyo 828 with 1.0mm tip. This is supposed to be in a similar league to the AZ3.
Thanks for all the replies and hi paintguy.
It is Pro-spray basecoat and having found the datasheet for it I looked up the recommended thinners and then looked up a datasheet for a current Pro-spray clear and found the same thinners listed in both. Then as a final check I searched a few shops selling the thinners and they are advertised as 2k thinners.
One thing now though is that I saw in the datasheet that the basecoat can be activated for greater performance, now I’m wondering if I should do that. This is my first time spraying 2k. Would there be any downsides to adding hardener?
I’m only a novice home sprayer. I’ve got that exact one and it’s much better quality than the ebay ones I’ve got for primer etc. Finish was good enough for me off the gun.
Mirka do one. Came recommended by a smart repair guy I spoke to.
I’ve got an Air Gunsa AZ3 HTE2 and it’s good to hear it does well. I thought it got great results but have nothing to compare it to and not much experience. I was thinking of trying a LVLP gun, but now I think I’ll stick with the AZ3.
I got mine from my dad’s local paint specialist http://www.sprayguns.co.uk/Gravity_Feed_-_Anest_Iwata_Full_Size on their recommendation.
It’s from the Air Gunsa line of Anest Iwata, model is AZ3 and it’s is described as a reduced pressure “high transfer efficiency 2”.
What is it about reduced pressure that you prefer over HVLP? I ask as I’m a novice and my gun is a reduced pressure Anest Iwata with 1.3mm tip. I was looking at a LVLP 1.3mm (cheap one admittedly) gun on ebay and wondering if it would be better for metallics and less overspray clouds.
I don’t care about speed or being able to pile it on like a colission shop, just results. So am curious if the RP gun is actually better.
How long did you leave the filler to set before you painted it? Did you paint with 1k or 2k primer?
It could be down to not having sanded/blended the filler well enough, but more likely I think due to filler sinking and absorbing some of the primer solvents.
Maybe your point on the brittle clear over softer base could be right. I was new to painting and only spot primed areas, and the basecoat took a good 6 or 7 coats to cover because of this multi-toned background. The again, it’s also done it on the rear valance which only had 2 or 3 coats of basecoat.
The car hasn’t even been out of the garage yet and there are no windows.
I wonder if a water based basecoat would help as it would be less vulnerable to solvents in the clear? There is a binder which you can add to 2k paint which makes it air dry, maybe I will try that as I don’t want to expose family and neighbours to isocyanates, let alone myself.
TBH I’m a bit fed up with it as I’m also fighting to work over a poor respray on the rest of the car.
I have had success, but only on a smallish grille insert which was chrome plated plastic (not sure how they do that). My method might be a bit cumbersome for a full size bumper, scrubbing a hydrochloric acid wash with a red scotch pad. Then a thorough water rinse and on with U-Pol Acid #8 etch primer in a spray can. Seems to have stuck pretty well.
Sanding was done perpendicular to those lines though.
I have been researching paint defects and am wondering if I am suffering from dissolution or migration? There is no cracking, it seems to be that the metallic particles are affected. My first coat could have been not a light tack coat, more of a gloss coat. I wouldn’t say I ever applied a heavy coat though.
I’m not seeing the problem on some other (plasic) parts that I painted though.
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29361]i find that an issue with with any blended panel ,nowadays i tend to sand back panels for blends as oposed to fine scotch and then lay a foundation coat ,personaly i have never felt comfortable about adhesion when using grey scotch and or matting agents ,i mostly knock back panels with 400 to 600 on the DA ,then use the foundation coat to cover the heavier scratch ,these days i have mostly replaced the use of scotch with Abralon which i also feel gives a far superior scratch[/quote]
Can you explain the process please? What do you mean by foundation coat? I’m a novice/home sprayer and have some small area work to do on some panels.
Would it pay to even go so far as scuff round the panel edges etc then clear not quite up to them? My thought being that way you wouldn’t get any edges lifting. Then after flatting the whole panel back after clearing, then compounding, the haze would all be taken away.