ryan brown
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I wear Mizuno running shoes.
[quote=”bloverby” post=24511]Here’s a pic of a car I painted with a black base i made up. :huh:
[img]http://www.ledr.com/colours/black.jpg[/img][/quote]
I think I just pissed myself laughing! :rofl
Nice looking work! What kinda guns are you spraying with over there?
Will the paint harden with another hardener, probably. Will it last using the wrong hardener, its a toss up. If it was me I would take my loss on the clear vs having to redo a few jobs. If Dupont says they don’t have a hardener for it I would take their word.
Hope you had a good one! :cheers
what your asking is for someone to teach you how to paint in a forum post. There are so many variables depending on your environment, air supply, and materials that your question is almost unanswerable. It’s kinda like asking how to wire a house to code, there is just too much to explain easily. It has taken most of us years of experience to know such things. One thing I can tell you is if you really don’t like orange peel get good at buffing. While a person can spray a pretty slick finish right off the gun there will always be some texture due to the nature of what your doing. Everything you spray has to have a certain amount of build and some texture is just part of it.
One thing that will help is to go back and read through old forum posts. Learn all you can about how paint works chemically, proper air supply and proper prep. Those will put you in a much better place to fine tune your spraying ability.
Ditto! :cheers
I use them. I have also used every other disposable cup system out there and prefer the RPS cups hands down. It is actually like a real cup. Once you learn to make sure the vent hole is sealed before pouring paint you will love them.
[quote=”Craig D” post=24147]We have been using Montana Clears for over 12 years. We have had NO issues with it. We have used it over a multiple kinds (brands) of base coats. We purchase it for about $110.00 per kit( 1 gal. clear and 1 qt hardener). If you stick with the big boys you will lose money if you calculate material reimbursement per refinish hour. All clears are made from a small # of manufacturers. They just label them differently.[/quote]
While you are somewhat correct just because one plant manufactuers clear for different companies doesn’t mean it is the same stuff in the can. All big companies hold patents on certain resins and the such in products. Also just because you haven’t seen a job fail doesn’t mean that none have failed.
[quote=”AllAmericanCollisionllc” post=24221][quote=”Brad Larsen” post=24220]…nor does the customer want to pay for it. Some of us have a client base who will take whatever we give them and damn the costs. Others need an alternative. Go with whatever works, but don’t be afraid to experiment and try new things.[/quote]
This is the truth, you’ve got to give the customer what they wany, but you’ve got to make money too. In my time we have always kept atleast one cheaper clear option on hand for jams that we also use on older, ugly cars, or jobs that the customer wants it fixed and for cheap.
My other thought here is that you should look into other paint options. we use SW directly from a coporate store, and top line clear is nothing near that price.
I’ve also got to ask about the “choice” to use waterborn. I sprayed waterborn paints on almost every job for the last 4 years and FINALLY!!!! :dnc we are using a solvent system again. waterborn is the most difficult paint I’ve ever used, it is incompatible w/ solvent systems and thusly clearcolat delamination and loss of gloss are almost to be expected- unless you jump through those hoops just right and happen to get lucky too. Ever got a drop of waterborn in your solvent clear? or visa-versa? there is an immediate seperating reaction, yet they expect us to shoot that clear over that base coat… haha.I recommend using a “compliant” basecoat. We’re now using Sherwin ATX and it is low VOC, easy to use, and the clear is around $200 sprayable (1 gallon +1 qt catalyst) and it is California Compliant.[/quote]
Delamination and loss of gloss are not normal for waterborne basecoat. Did you ever look into other brands? Some are alot nicer than others. I have used waterborne everyday for over 3 years and have not had the first failure. Honestly I think the gloss is better. I put it on my own car 3.5 to 4 years ago and still looks perfect.
[quote=”smooth” post=24127][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=24121]Can you get Lesonal??[/quote]
Yes. I have used lesonal in the past.[/quote]
You would be hard pressed to find a better product for the money than Lesonal imo. Or invest in some job costing software and bill each job accordingly. That way you have a set amount of markup on everything.
It’s called creative arrangement of words! :whistle: :cheers
I have the Dynabrade model and have been very happy with it. I have had it for 4 years or so without a problem. Make sure to oil and grease it. it takes grease by the gears and if you let it go dry it won’t last near as long.
Do you wipe your ass before you take a dump also?? :rofl :cheers
Pics look cool Jack, looks like your staying busy.
Can you get Lesonal??