ryan brown
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[quote=”Red Baron” post=24100]Also consider Iwata’s, an excellent gun.[/quote]
Man that is something I never thought I would here you say!! :p
[quote=”BadSon23″ post=23993]House of Kolor has a great black…BC25.It matches dodge code px8 which is pretty much straight autowave toner 245. Plus its way cheaper. Some where around 28 for a quart. Then you can buy HOK UC 35 in a quart which is HOK clear. It cost about 35 a quart. And a pint of hardner for 25, and a quart of reducer for 16. So thats about a hundred bucks and ur done. That’s minus a primer. There’s are cheap in small quantity. Just an option.[/quote]
Side by side I think 245 is blacker than BC25. IF using BC25 it helps alot to add some kandy koncentrate. I think the one i used was KK05 cobalt blue, but i can’t remember for certain.
Black SS cleared comes to mind. The ones I have used have all but been discontinued. Look into PPG concept or maybe Glasurit 22 line if you want to go that route.
For a BC/CC option Sikkens 245 autowave toner straight is a very good looking deep black.
[quote=”ding” post=23847]so checking it under my florescent lights in the shop with w+g remover sprayed on to make it shiny isnt the correct way :blink:[/quote]
w&g remover is close enough to clear for me :blush:
[quote=”Jayson M” post=23844]This is such a simple thing but it makes a huge difference when doing a spray out card.You know when you put your spray out card on the car and the color looks close but a little off? Take a piece of black paper and then put your spray out card on top of it so there is about 1/4 inch black border all the way around the spray out,then place it on the car and look at it with your sungun.This will show you if the color will be blendable,it is amazing how simple but effective a tool this is.
Do your tinting in the morning,that is when your eye is the best.Always tint to blend,not to butt match.Remember when dealing with metallics if you want it darker use a big metallic,if you want to lighten use a small meatallic,adding white to a metallic will not lighten it but kill all metallics.When looking at variants your eye will usually pick the best one within a few seconds,don’t keep looking at them for a long period of time.Always stay in the formula when tinting(there are exceptions to the rule),always use automotive clear on your sprayouts,NO SPRAYBOMB CLEAR!!!Just a few things to think about.[/quote]This is a great post Jayson! All very good info here.
Good looking job ding. What base and clear did you end up using?
[quote=”painter123″ post=23783] i am new to water tho the l. maybe its just the autowave product and not the guns :p :whistle: :p[/quote]
You do realize your using PPG don’t you :p :rofl
7E7 all day long. Take the 909 and deposit it in the trash. :p
I don’t really see how using a Tekna over a Sata would make the colors lighter, but i have not compared the two.
I used Imron white SS. Nice and bright. When its brand new it can be a bit too shiney but booth coating and/or overspray will fix that in no time.
It doesnt get much better than Menzerna polishes and compounds.
Get some Powergloss, Super Intensive polish and Superfinish. Very good 3 step system. Also Meguiars 105 and 205 work pretty good also.
Cool videos Lild! Truck looks good
Looks good Ding. :cheers
[quote=”Danp76″ post=23677]Point makes sense Ryan, I just often wonder how much marketing hype is involved with these products. Some clear is $100 a set-up, others around $400 are they really 4 times better in quality? How much of it is marketing, does it really cost that much to make a clear? I’d love to see a chemical analysis between the top name brand clears vs. the top aftermarkets. I know how things are marked up in industry, wonder if it’s a similar scenario with clear, as we are buying a blind item unless we are chemist with access to an expensive lab…how can we really say one clear is “better” then another unless we are a chemist?[/quote]
What I said in my first post kinda answers this. Raw material vs raw material the cost isn’t going to be as drastic. you lose the warranty, reps, and any support if things went south.
Cost per gallon is a poor comparison. You have to look at cost per sprayable oz and how far it goes.
If you like SPI just use it. What your asking would need to be determined by a third party chemist.
[quote=”Danp76″ post=23668]If you are painting a car hear and there, why use the expensive brands? I’m not sure that they are any more durable. I have used Glasurit for a number of year and it has worked great but very $$$. SPI is resonably priced and seems to hold up for a number of years. My question is why spend tons of money on clear does it really matter?[/quote]
You kinda have to look at your own personal situation and decide. If you run a decent sized shop I would never take a chance. If you paint a few cars here or there you will be fine using SPI. If you do work like Jim C where the film build goes way past what any company would warranty then SPI makes sense there too. I am not saying any of this as a knock on their product quality at all either.
Look at it this way. Say you run a shop painting 15-25 cars a week. You use SPI over PPG base. Say a bad batch of hardener goes out and it takes a few weeks to hear about it. By the time you realize it you have sprayed 65 cars. Is SPI going to write you a check for $50,000-100,000 to redo all the jobs that failed? One of the big paint companies will. This scenario is unlikely to happen but it has to be thought about. This expense could bankrupt a shop.
If you are just painting for yourself and you like the SPI use it. Quality wise you will be fine.
Oh jeez not another one of these threads :rofl
I have used one of their clears and it was pretty good for the money, but definately not close to the best clear I have used.
What some people fail to realize when comparing prices, most refinish clears are priced for what they do. If you want a clear to be slow, but cure under heat and be buffable within the hour, it is going to cost you. If you want a lifetime warranty with it, that will cost you also. if you want a paint company to test said product under a variety of conditions and within a structured system, it will cost you.
For painting a few cars here and their SPI has a real niche, but for most large collision shops it doesn’t fit. Thats what big paint companies want, big shops using alot of paint.