ryan brown
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Keep that NR95 for basecoat! Nothing sprays a tough metallic color in solvent as good as a NR95. Just make sure you have the air!
[quote=”bobwires” post=23190]is there a way to improve WB toners shelf life?[/quote]
Use them :p but really PPG toners are good for like 3 years, which if your not going through a toner in 3 years you really don’t need a mixing machine. I have a few on my shelf that are odd toners and they have been on past the shelf life and they are fine still.
Cool pics, but really you gave Ding shit for smoking in an A-pillar and your painting cars with moldings and handles in them :rofl c’mon man!
How do you like your Tekna compared to your RP for clear?
He wanted a hard clear. :p
[quote=”unclejack857″ post=23125]Ben, the reducer is NAPA Crossfire CR234. Ding, the tech sheets said to spray 6-8lbs.Thanks, Jack :rock[/quote]
That means 6-8 psi at the aircap, which you can’t measure unless you have an air cap test gauge. Easiest way around that is see what psi your gun is recommended to spray at and that should get you to 10 psi at the cap, and reduce it from there 4-10 psi and you can get 6-8 at the cap.
With all that said it requires enough air and proper delivery of said air. If you fall short you may have to bump up the psi a few pounds or adjust the gun a bit to compensate. Your best gauge would be a test panel and your eyes, if what your spraying on doesn’t look the way you want, adjust until it is adequate.
Nice looking work Ben! that bedside repair looked real nice :cheers
Damn you two old bastards! :rofl
Man this post is a blast from the past. I guess I should update, stick with the 3000. After using the 4000 for a bit I think the 3000 is a better gun. The 4000 can lay a flat coat of clear but it is slower and more finicky.
Keep the 75% overlap. That is a good practice to be in with anything your spraying.
Are your runs on edges and out of door handles or are they in the middle of panels? This is important
[quote=”Ben” post=22894]with the 2000 aircap…
Air Flow: 12.5-16.0 CFM @ 30 PSI Inlet (from Devilbiss)[/quote]
Hes in the UK so it would be the 115 aircap. it consumes 16cfm which is alot. I would consider the 110 aircap as it will take less air.
PSI or BAR doesn’t equate to CFM. One is a measure of pressure and the other is a measure of volume. The guns need more volume than pressure. You will have to check your compressor and see how much CFM it will put out.
The Tekna for clear does an good job. Not as good as the W400 or the RP. it feels better built than the Iwata, but not as good as the Sata. with a little tweaking it can put out almost as good of a job as my RP.
I kinda like my W400lv for HS+ honestly. I think it lays it on a bit flatter than my RP. With that said I am not a huge fan of HS+ as I find it a quirky bitch sometimes. You can convert your LPH into a W with just a nozzle and aircap.
I like my 3000 Sata more than the 4000. The 4000 can lay a flatter job but the 3000 just seams easier.
Very nice. I love all of the Spies and Standox HS clears. They work best out of a 1.2 Sata RP
There s no good answer to that question. It is really based upon what specific basecoat and clearcoat your using. A 1.3 and a 1.4 are pretty universal but there are exceptions.
One word of caution on the GTI, they are air hogs and require around 15cfm. Make sure you have a sufficient air supply and the proper piping, hose size and length, and high flow couplers or the GTI will not perform well.
Never seen one, and don’t think we have them on this side of the pond but it looks pretty slick! Wonder what the price tag on it is?
Looks good. Did you get to use your new nozzle?