ryan brown
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I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, does that count?
Can I do it so I can ban Bondo??? :rofl :rofl :rofl
I have heard spray can primer is a huge no-no under water.
Two things that might help. Mix up some epoxy each morning reuced down with some blending reducer. The pot life should be long enough to last the whole day. Just blow some on the cut-throughs. Or use a waterborne primer/sealer if you have it. It should be good to go in a cup all day also.
Having to mix up sealer for a little cut through on every job gets annoying.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=15411]are you using the G3 compound correctly? you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first. i was using farecla for a while and was capable of removing 1500 grit with it so i dont understand why 2000 grit isnt removable. also make sure you shake the compound bottle before use in case anything settled to the bottom.[/quote]
Just because you can remove P1500 scratches from one clearcoat doesn’t mean that it works for all. At work I use Sikkens 250 and Lesonal pro-air out in the shop. I could P1500 wet the Lesonal and buff it out easily. The sikkens 250 if I had to buff out P1500 scratches it would take me forever. Spies and Standox clears aren’t too bad to buff cratches out of but I wouldn’t want to go any coarser than P2000. I have been using the Mirka 2000 and 4000 and like it.
I usually wetted down the G3 but I would hit it first without water and halfway through my buffing cycle I would give it a spritz.
Try and get a wool pad. They run cooler and cut faster. I hate using foam for scratch removal.
Try and soak your wet sanding paper for a little bit if possible. It seems to leave alot less harsh of a scratch if it has soaked in water for a bit. If your wet sanding though I would do as Nick does and hit it with some P2500 before buffing.
I usually hit all my nibs with a wool pad first and follow that up with a foam cutting pad and another hit of compound then on the polishing.
The Farecla total seems to work better than the G3 to me. Never seen the G6, let us know how it works!
If all that fails see if you can get ahold of some Menzerna Powergloss. It works great at scratch removal. Best I have used.
Hookit 2 is a thing of the past. It is being phased out now. It sucked anyway. Any brands velcro will work with any others backing plates. It is just velcro. Hookit 2 was reversed as you stated. It never worked out for 3M. I think it was there way of having to use their backing plate and only their sandpaper. I hated the sandpaper, it was very stiff. It was really hard to hand sand with a piece of it and it was way overpriced.
Another vote for Norton here. Although the new purple 3M is very nice. I think it lasts longer than the Norton but it does cost more.
All of the roloc’s are the same.
Mirka has the best scuff pads imo. Stay away from Nortons they aren’t that great.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=15388]usally a drop coat aint gonna lighten the side tone ya just need ta tint it ta get it right i would do a sprayout first b4 painting it agian[/quote]
x2! The only thing a drop coat will do in solvent is darken it more. You could add some more of a flop controlling toner if it is in the mix but it will make the metallics appear coarser and will dirty the face up. It could be too much of a larger size flake in the mix. I would leave some of the larger flake out and add back in until the flop looks right. usually if everything else in the color looks good and the flip turns dark it is too much larger flake. Also if there is blue pearl and black in the mix that can darken the flip. Usually if you leave the black out it will also throw the face off. If you leave the pearl out it will darken the face and lighten the flip.
Mess with it a little and kick it into the fenders and be done.
Try and finish it out with some P3000 trizac paper. Also hit each spot twice instead of once.
Are you using foam or wool pads?
Agree with Jayson. I would not sand off the paint. Problem you will run into is there is no way just to sand off the previous paintjob. there will be areas that will be broken through and need primer. The primer will have more build than the previous paintjob.
Color match can be tough. I would blend the fenders if your that worried about it. There is still a chance there will be a slight color difference with blending as you are painting onto 2 different substrates.
If you clear Dupont Cromax too early the metallics move and the color just looks really strange. Won’t do it till the next day. The job has to be redone at that point. You know when it’s dry though. Once water is dry, it’s dry.
I know on some recoat windows if you go past them it will delam. I have seen Sherwin Williams do it. Shop I worked at another painter put flames on another guys truck. It sat uncleared for maybe a week to a week and a half. It delamed while they were buffing it. Some basecoats it doesn’t matter. I know Spies and Standox have an unlimited recoat. I think they wanted you to throw on a coat of colorless base maybe, cant remember it’s been awhile since I went to there school.
I know Walcom makes a dessicant air filter/ dryer that heats the air (TD3), but never heard of a gun that heats up. I bet that isn’t cheap :unsure:
[quote=”Stone” post=15200]well … looks like they can come load this limco bs up and get it to hell out of my shop …. useless *** …. color is so far off I couldn’t paint a complete with it. [/quote]
i would’ve never guessed that one!:whistle:
[quote=”lild” post=15220]you know, your going to get fine by the epa. [/quote]
I don’t think he has to worry about the EPA in Congo. Just a hair out of their jurisdiction 😛
Lesonal is far from what we consider a cheap product over here. I have used quite a bit of Lesonal Nick and find it to be a very good product. Great value imo. We have some real cheap and shitty clears sold in the states.
BTW that that Mitsubishi looks good!;)
[quote=”Stone” post=15145]I suppose cause jays got the best products …. end of story , so competitions over …. what jay use’s win,s ….. give me a break bro and get off your high horse :deadhorse … love yah but had to be said …… not everyone has a silverspoon up their *** :dnc suck it up suzzie … I’m VOC compliant :rock water sucks :hunt[/quote]
WOW! :whistle:
Onto the OP, I wouldn’t think the dbc500 would have done it but I guess it’s possible. I do not have much experience with R-M so I can’t comment on the products you use but if the basecoat was too dry on the blend areas I could see it pinching on ya some. Does it have a grainy dirty look or just die back? What kind of gun are you spraying with? Have you ever checked your mil build? I have seen faster clears pinch on me if the milage wasn’t high enough. Kinda a fine line with faster products, too much will die on ya too.
I have used DC92 and wasn’t a fan, looked good but man I could run that stuff. If it looked heavy it was gone.:p
I would try waiting longer before clear and ditching the 500 first and see if that helps. With faster products it’s more important to have your basecoat flashed well. Jimmo may pop in here as he has alot of experience with the Diamont line.