ryan brown
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Nice looking job man! Glad everything worked out for you.
You supposed to pull the metal first anyway, not just spray some filler on it 😛 :rofl :rofl
tough luck Andy, I hate when I get in situations like that, I bet you won’t forget that nozzle next time!
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]Rip them off and make the insurance company buy new 😉 :pcorn:[/quote]That is how I do them also!
They are aweful hard on cars up there Bondo! :blush:
Looks like you have some good work in there! Hope it stays that way for ya.
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Farecla is very good polish system but the g6 doesn’t work worth a FUK on scratch resistant clears like sikkens superior 250.They do have a new polish out for these rock hard clears but I haven’t tried them yet except the one by 3m.[/quote]True story!!! Superior buffs like a concrete floor.
I have used the G3 and Total by Farecla. I loved both but couldn’t get the G3 to work with that clear. Never heard of G6.
X2 on the wool pad!
You can paint onto the carbo. Just make sure you spray onto the side that says “paint this side” or “this side up”.
Done it for years and never had it blow off. Just make sure it’s tight. If it is loose and flapping all over the place you will get more dirt.
I have sprayed alot of Cromax. Recoatability is a major issue with it. If you have to put anymore on after your 1.5 coats have dried it will die back on you. Color match was less than stellar.
From what the pics show it isn’t bad at all. There is a good chance that if you only had a few scratches they might not even have color near the 1/4’s. Where was the damage? If it was on the back they probably colored the back and just cleared the sides. The extra clear might be giving it a little darker cast.
As others said take it back to the shop and talk to them.
I’m not saying this to be a dick but if your picking on the bumper for this, you might not be happy doing it yourself. Color match is a very tricky thing.
My advice would be to live with it. It is not bad at all, and seems as though the shop did a good job.
If you want it perfect is to have blended the 1/4’s. Even then there is a chance for a very very slight difference in color. There are so many variables when it comes to color matching it’s unreal. Just dropcoating it will not fix it. It will make the color darker.
When matching a silver the most important thing is to make sure your flip is good. If the flip goes darker or lighter than the car it will stand out like a sore thumb. The estimator should have discussed color match with you when you were getting the estimate. If they promised perfect color match panel painting I feel sorry for their painter. The rate at which solvent base flashes on plastic compared to metal can change the color. That is a variable there is no answer for. Also the difference in static charge between the car and plastic bumper can effect color.
If the color match is 95% that is pretty damn good. If it bugs you, take it back and talk to them about repainting it and blending the 1/4’s. They will have to repaint the bumper along with the 1/4’s though.
I agree with others though almost no bumpers match from the factory. If the factory can’t get it right it is even harder for the painter in a shop.
I’m not a big fan of the CVI for clear also. To get a nice job out of it I had to dial in the material way too much. The gun sprayed Cromax Pro very well. Other than that I find it useless.
I think you ought to charge the customer a little extra since they will have better UV protection in that area! 😉
BK check your PM
What type of frame equipment do you have Han
Very nice work Han. I thought all you worked on were Mercedes! 😛
How does that Transtar base blend for ya???
[b]Kevin Campbell wrote:[/b]
[quote]I’ve found Featherfill G2 works well on bare ‘Vettes. Nice build for blocking, and seals down the fiberglass grain. Follow up with a good 2K , and your pretty set.Doing one now with that.
[IMG]http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp275/Autobodyman/img39.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
That is damn nice Kevin! Hell of a job as usual.
I have always done Epoxy or polysurfacer. Usually both. I do not go wet on wet between the epoxy and poly though. I always let the epoxy dry very well. My rep told me he has heard of failures from this. I would put a couple coats of epoxy down and let it dry for a week. Sand with 120 and spray my poly. Depending on the surface condition it would get blocked with P80 than P120 and reapply the poly, or P120, P180 and D/A with P220 and 2K.
Both will bond really well. The epoxy first won’t hurt, but I can’t say for sure how much it will help. I think you will be fine with either method.
I do not envy you at all for doing this job! :rofl I always hated painting older vettes. Too much blocking, I like instant gratification!