ryan brown
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[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldnt base over a raw bumper that just had adhesion promoter on it….ever.
why not just base over sanded e-coat also.
show me a tech sheet from a major paint manufacturer that says just to base over adhesion promoter. Bulldog may say it’s ok but bulldog isn’t warrantying my paint either.
At least I know when it’s done the proper way it will never come back to bite me in the ***
:pcorn:[/quote]X2! How much time is it really saving you to skip the sealer???
Sikkens and Lesonal have a special reducer for their sealer that is a adhesion promoter ans reducer in one. Basically for a raw cover or part I scuff with a gold scothch brite and a paste called Plastic Fix, rinse, wipe down with waterborne W&G remover, tack and seal.
You can use it on metal and primed plastic parts also so no need to mix two rounds of sealer. it also can go over unsanded e-coat.
sorry to hear about that Andy. :blush: Hope you get better soon! Is it burnt very bad?
:cheers Looks good Stone
Waterborne base doesn’t do real well like that. It isn’t the greatest sanding thing in the world.
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hey Ryan, How many hours did you get for that job?[/quote]I got 28.6 hours to do this job. There was also a front cover and a reclear on a t/l for scratches that wasn’t pictured.
[b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
[quote]nice job ryan 😉 ,I am still thinking about carpeting my booth never got round to it yet.
I take it that a new door or skin plus fender.
You have edged these and fitted them for painting ??.
We do this as well, but often take it one step further.
since we already have wet on wet primer / sealer in the gun when edging the panels we coat the outside also, then paint the inside to body colour.
I am not talking about a high build primer just a couple of light coats we can then fit them and give them a quick scuff.
Then we are good to go with base coat, just found this saved any additional masking and overall saved time, especially if we were going to the bother of fitting before paint.
only takes a few mins to scuff the primer[/quote]
Thanks for the tip Nick! Do you just use your sealer(wet on wet primer)? Do you sand it or just give it a quick scuff with a scotch brite?
I used to do something like this but my helper does most of the cut-ins and he doesn’t spray the flattest finish :blush: . I might have to give what your saying a go
Ya it was a new fender and door skin.
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]Looks good.You use carpet in your booth?
What’s the benefit? just the non slip or what?[/quote]Holds dust and dirt down. An added benefit is it’s easier on the legs and knees.
I have used one before. It’s not a bad gun. One of those you either like or you don’t. Some guys swear by them.
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]Lazy bastard. 3 more panels to paint and everything would have matched. now the guys gonna be driving around with your nice job on 3/4 of the car and GM’s nice tiger stripes on the rest :whistle: :whistle:Nice job by the way. not using the norton tape anymore?[/quote]
You ought to see where I had to blend into the passenger fender and rear door. They are mottled to hell from the factory. Every edge on the car had a huge clear build up on it also. Thats some good quality control GM has.
I will be going back to the Norton, got a case waiting to be opened.
I’m not real big on the yellow tape. I needed some tape and was on the phone with a jobber who only has 3M and got a couple sleeves. I was to lazy to call our Norton jobber. It’s alright. Doesn’t stick near as well as the norton, but sometimes the Norton sticks too good! :unsure:
Believe it or not Jayson the carpet helps out on the knees and feet. It isn’t thick but the little bit of cushion helps.
Actually the color was a damn good match. i always check my color and make a sprayout when I jamb the car so I know what I’m dealing with before it gets to me. This color looked good so I went with it.
It wouldn’t be white for long :blink:
It seems to trap the dirt really well. I run Jun-Air blowers and it doesn’t kick up any dust. I vac it once a day or every other day with a regular house vac. When I booth coat I pressure wash the carpet and shop vac the water out of it and it looks new. In fact they make a small water pump for shop vacs now so I wont have to stop and drain it. Should be real quick now.
I’m sure it would work well in a cross flow also. Its pretty cheap to do. Mine is a year or so old now and still works good. I figure I can get 2-3 years out of it. Easy to put down also.
take that filter and throw it in the garbage…problem solved! 😉
Not sure which SPI clear your spraying Jim but I have sprayed the Euro and I had to run my pressure a little low to get it to wet up. I reduced it 4:1:1. I felt it was way too much reducer for that clear and gun. Probably could have gotten by with half the reducer. The clear I use is very thick and low voc. The gun seems to really shine with a thick clear. My Iwata struggles with it. I use quite a bit less clear with my RP. A bumper only takes me 9 oz, and a front end around 18-20 oz of mixed clear for 1.5 coats.
Let us know what you think of it after some more time behind the trigger. It took me a little while to adjust as I was in the same boat as you. I used Iwata’s for 4-5 years. I still like the Iwata for certain clears, especially if spraying a small job in the shop.
I know of guys spraying it around 25 psi Jim. i don’t think it is set in stone you have to use over 30. Hell if it’s working at 20 keep on. If I’m spraying a thinner clear I run mine around 26-27 psi.
Also it took me a little while to get used to it. Once I used it more I can’t put it down now. I can say that it sprays alot better with the material wide open or barely closed. I just adjust my speed. It likes to be close also. I find the Iwata gives a little smoother finish but it looks fatter. The RP finish looks better IMO.