ryan brown
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If you were to check your milage I think you will find that you will get more build out of the Sata. I did a little testing awhile back with a mil gauge. I had trouble reaching proper milage with an Iwata, but with the RP it was no problem. In fact I got the same build with a 1.3 RP as I did a 1.4 W400lv.
I spray a really high solids clear(around 65%) and run mine around 32psi. material wide open and fan closed 1/4 turn. 35 might be a little high.
http://www.kustomkulturelounge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15119&highlight=sata
This is a pretty interesting read if you have a few minutes.
Where do you get your Pro-Spray base around Louisville BK?
Job looks good so far!
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]this is so true when they say this stuff sticks to anything they weren’t liein.
plus with the water borne, you have to use wb liners. reg. liners won’t work. for the clear i use my aluminum cup.[/quote]What is a WB liner? The only difference I know of is the strainer for water needs to be a 125 micron instead of the standard 200 micron. 3M has the blue lids for this.
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i say use non sanding epoxy and do a wet on wet job. and i wouldn’t use high dollar ss paint. go with the cheap stuff.[/quote]You want to use a good single stage. Imron is a different animal than a normal SS. It is way tougher. For something like a tub use something nice and you won’t see problems down the road. A quart of white Imron isn’t going to break the bank by any means.
If I wasn’t going to use Imron I would at least pick a SS from a fleet line and not a normal automotive SS.
I do zero cutting and buffing but will nib and buff. I will nib dirt out or if I get a run or sag. I never have to sand for texture or peel issues. I am also doing collision work so a cut and buffed car isn’t what they want. I am not painting show cars or restorations. Everything I spray will look better than factory.
A good product helps alot also. The clear I use is very nice and lays down very well.
I should add that I paint quite a few cars. 12-20 a week, so I have a good amount of practice. 😉
good job Nexson!
Did you know chrysler doesn’t approve the use of weld-thru primer??? Not sure why being they seem to rust worse than any other car. :whistle:
Nice pics.
I am in Kentucky so I have no idea. Most Dupont jobbers will have Standox or Spies. A platinum PPG jobber will have Nexa. Just google it.
If they adjust your color it should be fine. Thats what a painter in a shop would do with a mixing bank.
It is not a good idea to become junior bench chemist. Chemical engineers at paint companies design a system to work together and a certain way. Trust me you or anybody else that paints cars doesn’t know more than they do. You can get away with using one brand of base and another clear, but that can even bite you in the ***.
Aren’t you spraying a newer Lexus SUV???
I posted earlier that you might want to look at a European paint line as they have better matches. Try Sikkens, Glasurit, Nexa, or Spies Hecker/ Standox.
You are going to create alot more work for yourself. I have sprayed alot of RX350’s in 3-stage with Sikkens and always had very good matches. You have recieved good advice here from quite a few guys who all paint for a living but you seem to insist on kicking yourself in the balls with this job. Take a step back, buy some base that matches, work with a jobber who will work with you. Spray the car and be done. You are talking about a 50K SUV and you are pinching pennies on paint??? Don’t major in a minor here! You are going to try and save a few dollars and will end up spending alot more money and time in the long run.
The advice Jayson first gave you was top notch advice. Buy some good paint and follow what he said and it will turn out nice.
We are talking about compressed air volume.(CFM) If you are not getting enough air volume to the gun it will not work correctly.
Your nozzle size really depends on the material your spraying. There is no one size is better than an other. Some clears work better with a 1.4 and some work better with a 1.2 or 1.3. Really depends on the chemistry and solid content of the clear.
The gun you have is a great gun. Not the best choice for clear but it should produce a nice paint job. There is no certain gun used for laying clear like glass. That is up to the man behind the trigger. If your looking for a finish off the gun that looks like it was sanded and buffed your not going to get it. You can get a nice slick paintjob if you know what your doing, but if you want it perfectly flat it is going to need an electric shine.(buffer)
wherever your last coat of groundcoat goes, put your pearl a few inches past that. If your sprayout matches, it should blend easy. If not get your sprayout right.
Think about this, if your groundcoat is blended properly it wont have full coverage at the end. You dont need full coverage with the pearl either. Where you have full coverage of your white base you will need the amount of pearl that you have on your letdown panel.
If you are not going to be doing much painting in the future the cost of the equipment will not offset your savings. If this is a new hobby it will cost some money to get equipped.
If you need a shop Jimmo is in Ontario. He is the site owner. Not sure how close to you but if you need a good shop to take it to I would contact him.
If you want to tackle yourself take some time and do some reading. It will help in the long run. That is an easy color to blend you just need to get a good variant picked for it. There are alot of videos on the sites Youtube about blending that will help you also.
Sata does recommend 2 bar or 29 psi. If the gun isnt spraying well at that psi you probably have a air volume problem. I have never had to run more psi to a Sata than what they recommended. That particular gun requires alot of volume.
I have had to run a little extra psi to Iwata’s but not much. maybe 2-5 psi more than recommended. Just remember you can over atomize a product. You don’t want all the solvent blown out of the paint before it hits the panel. Too much psi can also lead to poor film build.
Again hvlp isn’t your best choice for clearing but it will work.
Looks really good Dag! Keep up the good work :cheers
Is that your helper taping it up?
Looks real good! Dam that thing is a boat!