ryan brown
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The IR you listed from Tractor Supply is a single stage. I would always go for a 2-stage. I agree with Jim, I would go for the Eaton. IR makes a really nice compressor BUT there is a difference between their commercial line and the line of compressors you will get from Tractor Supply or a Home Depot. Eaton is all commercial.
Spend the money for a nice big compressor, proper piping, and the right filtration once and you will be paid back for years. Alot of refinish problems stem from air issues.
You can always look on Craigslist for used industrial units in your area. Just make sure you don’t buy a 3-phase as you won’t be able to hook it up in a residential area. I would rather have a good used unit than a new cheap one.
:welc
If using Autowave use Lesonal Pro-Air clear. Same price and made for non-booth consitions. Is compatable with Sikkens also.
I have heard 90-line is a son of a b!tch if you have to sand it. Autowave sands fine.
I used Cromax for a year. Autowave blows it away hands down.
Whatever idea you have for a quick fix, just go ahead and forget about it. Don’t try and just do the door.
Stones idea isn’t bad. Just take it all back off and start over.
Is your mottle in your blend or the whole blend panel? If it is only in your blend make sure your color matches. Have you done a sprayout? A dark flip on a silver will throw off your blend. Flip is more important on a silver or gold. You can blend alot of stuff but a bad flip will not blend.
Cool pics Dag.
How come everything you do is a trainwreck Ding? :rofl
Not a surprise. Iwata has had a few price increases also. It’s just the way it is.
That’s why I stick with old purple. Bondomerchant let me in on that secret a while ago. Best advice ever. 😉
Your best bet is going to be Jim C on this question. I’m pretty sure all the candies he uses are from the carizzma line. He sprays more candy than anyone else on here.
:welc
Alot of companies do offer factory pack, but it is usually for a color that contains a unusual toner that isn’t on a mixing bank. Also some companies offer very popular colors in factory pack but it is usually black or different whites.
Most companies have a custom color line of paint with nice looking colors, but they are mixed off of a mixing bank like all other colors.
When it comes down to it all colors are mixed with different toners, it just if the jobber or manufacture is mixing it.
You need to be a little more specific than that. What kind of repair? Pics would be helpful. Do you have an air compressor and a garage?
What your asking can be done but we need some more info first.
:welc
I have mine running off the shop air as well Joe. I am only about 20 to 30 feet of piping away from our refrigerated dryer so the air in my hood stays cool 😉
I ended up going with the Sata Vision hood. I have to change the lens about once a week.
Are you referring to basecoat or clearcoat?
It might take 25 psi, depends on your air source, fittings, air line length, and type and quality of the regulator. If everything is as it should be, no I would never spray base at 25 psi. Especially with the silver aircap. It overatomizes at the recommended air pressure, I can’t imagine upping it 9 pounds.
To be honest I don’t use a regulator on the gun. I used a test aircap and set the pressure at the wall diaphragm regulator. I use 7-8 psi at the head for spot repairs and 9-10 for large jobs.
I can take two different regulators and have a 4-5 psi difference to get 10 psi at the tip. I really don’t trust them anymore. thats why it is hard to give you a psi to use, to many variables. When testing the aircap gauge every regulator I owned had a different psi to reach 10 at the cap. The only gun that was accurate was a Sata NR3000 digital. With a test cap at 29 psi it produced 10 psi at the head.
I have done plenty of jobs with the LVX without cloudyness. It is easier with a Sata but can be done with an Iwata without to much trouble. You have to watch your fan.