ryan brown
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I have no idea what ARC clear is or what plastic primer your using, but almost all the time the adhesion promoter goes on first then clear as normal.
If the product your using is something specific for headlight I could be wrong.
Thats some very nice work ScottB!
Good post Bondo!
are you adding the plastic primer into the clear?
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/
Here is another site we all go on, you should post pics there. Not as many pro guys but there are some there. It would be nice for them to see what can be done.
Looks great Jeremy, I don’t envy you at all! 😛
Is that Akzo masking plastic your using?
Nice looking work as usual ding!
This is not a dig at you at all but just because you do something 100 times and didn’t see it fail doesn’t mean it won’t or hasn’t. Take a look at a few TDS sheets. There are 2 single stages and one etch. I can post more but they all state the same thing. The single stages say nothing about going over an etch in suitable substrates, nor does the etch say it is ok to topcoat with single stage or base.
[url=http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/K-15966_ChromaOneSS.pdf]here[/url]
[url=http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/H-19311_ChromaPremSS.pdf]here[/url]
[url=http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/nsn/Nason/491-17.pdf]and here[/url]
Another problem lies in painting over a very hard surface such as metal with no cushion in between the color and metal. If the only cushion between base or SS is a very thin coat of etch the car will be very prone to rock chipping.
[quote=”billgaino” post=28057] I found out the hard way if you paint over the Nason etch primer too soon it stains the topcoats with bleed through :x[/quote]
This doesn’t really have anything to do with flash time. It will bleed through no matter how long you wait. Etch is a 1K product and is always reversable. The solvents in basecoat can soften it. You risk staining or a delam issue.
The goal of sealer is not to paint over bad paint. If it has crows feet, no amount of sealer or primer will fix it. You don’t build a house on top of quicksand, your paintjob is only as good as what is under it.
I have used a bit of both. 7900 is a bit thin and is an ok clear. If your going to flat sand and reclear it would be an alright clear.
8035 is a very nice clear but seems to prefer a 3000 RP with a 1.2.
For a cross draft 7900 may get out of dust a bit quicker for you and dry up quicker. For appearance i like 8035. 7900 will be a bit easier to apply for some people who are used to thinner clears.
One thing to note is that price of a gallon kit doesn’t mean much. You will pay less for the 7900 but will use a ton more. 8035 goes a long way. If you buy clear based on the price of a gallon you will usually pick a crappy clear. I would be willing to bet in the end the 8035 is cheaper if applied correctly.
Nice looking work there Ben. I do not envy you at all right now!
I want a refund!!
Oh wait, I don’t pay anything anyway :p
Thanks for your hard work on the site Jimmo!
I have always found Reflex silver to cover very good.
Sealer or wet on wet primer (whatever you’ll call it) would be a nice option since it appears you scuffed it with a red pad. I would stay away from white sealer that way if you don’t get it completely covered it won’t lighten your flip too much. Just a nice medium gray will work fine.
Just my .02 cents, which may not even be worth that nowadays! 😛
Sata primer guns are hands down the best. I have used damn near every one of them also.
Damn Andy that sucks, very sorry to hear that.
I know on your side of the pond jobs are slim as a lot of shops have closed. SMART repair seems to be good over there. You will be fine though, a painter of your caliber is hard to find. Maybe your DeBeer rep can find you something?
If you ever decide to venture to this side and paint let me know!