timothy lee
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- July 31, 2011 at 2:32 am #31981
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=190]ya had ta ask but the best clear ive ever seen is the crossfire 15410@420 clears in the ms line they blow every clear ive ever used away even their 700[/quote]
tell me more of this crossfire product and where I can get some
July 31, 2011 at 2:22 am #31980one complaint however is there tds.. it doesnt tell much
http://www.de-beer.com/TDS/agb/TDSDBL-WB900-TI-A.pdf
July 31, 2011 at 2:08 am #31979[quote=”Paintwerks” post=21503]You can’t base your opinion of a paint system on just one colour match. Where one colour might be great, another might be nowhere close.
I wasn’t basing it solely on the color match. but in all important charactersitics of what a good water paint shud have. I was a glasurit onyx user till now. long history with envirobase too. haven’t tried sandbox though… but I must say, DaBeer over ppg or glasurit any day of the week.
DeBeer paint is regarded as ‘bottom of the barrel’ here, with most of the good shops using PPG, Standox and Glasurit.
i can only assume that u haven’t tried it. forget what all the shops are using, n try shoot some. and then I’d like o hear your opinion on what’s superior to what .
July 25, 2011 at 7:39 pm #31893it’s the hardest base coat to repair. hands down. so unless you never ever run into anyproblems at the base coat level than get it. to give u a better idea, put some lint or hair on a detailing clay bar and try to sand it out with some 1200 grit. :chair :deadhorse
July 14, 2011 at 7:31 am #31741hey thanks for such a fast response.. that’s the light variant? thanks again
May 11, 2011 at 8:57 am #30806Is that a fact of physics? Or just from your experience? I’m just curious, good information. What if it goes through a small opening on to a area that’s same in size like 2 60 gal tanks?
May 7, 2011 at 1:02 pm #30737Agreed, makes me questions the competence of the user after having the least problems with sherwin clears. Then its just about confirmed with the topic like “Shirley Williams?”
May 7, 2011 at 12:49 pm #30736We had both AWX Autowave systems at my school. What it comes down to is quality vs productivity. Sikkens has a better color match and lays light silvers much better. Sherwin is probably the fastest paint out there and light silvers always mottle. Another thing is we did run in to quite a few adhhesion problems which no one was able to explain. So if your doing high end cars, this shouldn’t even be a topic, sikkens hands down. Not even just my opinion, its a fact. Quality vs productivity. I will admit however that sherwins clears are better than sikkens, but that’s just my opinion. I think sherwins clears are the best in all categories in terms of dry time, gloss, user friendly, and appearance..
June 14, 2010 at 10:33 am #21859i have this problem with silver mottle that can only be seen before the sun goes down. around 5 to 6 pm. when the sun is shining directly at the side panel thats been painted. but when the sun is sky high its flawless. any ideas?
June 6, 2010 at 4:25 am #21777sorry i should have been more clear with my question. i was referring to sherwin AWX water base. the new additives you guys were talking about is for ulta 7000 i think
June 5, 2010 at 12:54 am #21761[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]ya just gotta remember ta crank the fluid in with my base a good turn or 2 from what ya would shoot clear at also using the new stabilizers that have the hardner built in help 2 in my system thats trs4 the sherwin base dont like being sprayed fat ;)[/quote]hey bondo, so with the fluid choked down, how many coats and how much reduced SW silver would you say it take to hide/cover the side of a full size sedan? 1/4, 2 doors, and a fender? what new stabilizer? do you mean the new 00025 reducer?
May 6, 2010 at 7:52 am #21044yeah i was joking when i voted solvent. i never even sprayed solvent before. started off as water boy. (new to the game). i heard water was better, but i didnt know it was like 100 percent better..
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