timothy lee
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i actually only spray water and never even tried solvent. just wanted to hear the responses fr shits n gigs. lol
LOL those are really some good answers. i ALWAYS under estimate my repair times no matter what. so 6 hours would most likely turn in to 10.
just for fun, lets say its a re-due for color match and slightly wavey lines. no bondo.
dry sand
DA 180 all the rattle can stuff off and feather out. urethane primer surfacer should be ok for bare metal showing. but avoid bare metal if you can. just remove what you have to, nothing more. check your primer data sheet for bare metal compatability. 1.4 is ok to shoot your primer. 3 coats of surfacer. block down all the high spots lightly with 180, follow with 220, 320, 400 DA, 500 DA. final sand with 600 DA. blow off with shop air, degrease. i usually skip 2 sanding sequences in the middle somwethere depending on what i have to work with.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]You can try but don’t know if you will have much luck. Just be nice when you talk to the guy and try to meet in the middle maybe. I know I will bend over backwards for someone who is polite and reasonable.Do you not have a spraygun? You do know per oz the cost of the spraycans is higher than anything else.[/quote]
i dont have a compressor. hell yeah they are more expensive
I know what you guys mean. and im not mad or anything and im not going to go in there demanding stuff. im gona be very polite and just explain everything. however in the event that they dont compensate me somehow, im gona have to do something about it. cant just let it ride. i feel that its 100 percent there fault. i asked him like 5 times, ” are you sure you can put Envirobase in the Spraymax aerosol? and he kept sayin yes yes! so i bought it went home and used it and now my paint is de-laming at the base coat. i looked it up and he used the wrong cans. i mean common, what you guys dont agree? BTW the enviorobase and the cans were purchased there, so he should know the products
has anyone tried finishing off with like 3 drop coats instead of 1?
yeah but for some reason sherwins 500 blending clear was throwing my colors darker than my spray out from the face and flop. especially on the blend panel right where the blend ends. been looking a lot better ever since i stoped using the blender.
agree, not as much like before but can still get out quite a bit with no bondo
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]just paint not a nightmare :lol1 blending paint takes time an practice a bad sidetone mismacth can be blended but …….. it takes either luck or experiance an we all here can feel your pain ;)[/quote]a bad side tone can or cant be blended out? and how can you tell if its gona be bad or not before you clear?
also, they say some mottle is un detectable until cleared. what do you guys think of that? i learned that taking before clearing, taking the car outside under direct sunlight shining on the face shows will show quite a bit if not all base application inperfections.
flash. no scuff. thats with sherwins awx water 500 blender. never really worked for me. they have a new one now but im hesitant to try it.
so it is a lost art… and more so as the generations move on.
[b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote]this is an interesting topic, Ive always used 800 for blend panels, so are you guys saying clear will fill 500-600 grit scratches without swelling up or showing through?[/quote]it will if the 500 600 scratches are on the surface of the base. butbnot if the base is showing scratches under it after full coverage coats.
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote]this is an interesting topic, Ive always used 800 for blend panels, so are you guys saying clear will fill 500-600 grit scratches without swelling up or showing through?[/quote]I took the question to mean for areas I was painting to full coverage over, not blend panels. I use 1000 grit maximum for those.[/quote]
agree. ther question was meant twards full coverage panels. i keep my blends at 1000 too. 800 max
no. its completly from scratch with no core.