Scott

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Viewing 15 posts - 601 through 615 (of 721 total)
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  • November 2, 2011 at 10:46 pm #33977

    [quote=”Red Baron” post=23405]Well, getting orange peel can be from a lot of factors;

    Too far away
    Moving too fast
    Too fast drying product
    Poor atomization
    Going over something that has texture (like poorly sprayed base)
    Gun setup wrong
    Not enough air VOLUME in the gun

    is there an Echo in here ?

    November 1, 2011 at 7:18 pm #33962

    Sure water isn’t as fast as solvent but theres not that much as a difference. I run a production shop and am doing quite fine with it. Try out some other types of drying methods or like ben said change your paint system

    November 1, 2011 at 7:04 pm #33961

    get a tec sheet on the clear you are using and follow it exactly how it is stated, if not you are asking for trouble. you should be able to obtain a tech sheet at your local jobber or online. Orange peel can come from many variables, gun distance,gun set up, air pressure, in-experiance, etc.

    October 31, 2011 at 7:11 pm #33943

    that is exactly what happens. great job :clappy

    October 30, 2011 at 10:33 pm #33912

    I have recently switched form 3m to norton buffing process. The Norton black Ice is a great compound/swirl elimanator. conpound and glaze all in one just use two different pads. Theres a blue for the compound step and a white for the swirl elimanition. Works great.

    October 30, 2011 at 10:29 pm #33911

    try using two water traps or an in line water separater. It a relativly cheap fix for such a big pain in the azz problem. :silly:

    October 28, 2011 at 2:53 am #33831

    [quote=”85Hernandez” post=23277][quote=”liverlips” post=20385]is this something i can swing myself with a few tools and some paint.

    ~liver

    [/quote]

    Yep! Remove the bumper and use a heat gun from the back of the bumper and re-shape it by pushing on it. (not with your hands, lol) check this video out, it’ll help you. thanks to my friend pete!

    :rofl :lol1

    October 27, 2011 at 6:43 pm #33824

    yes. They will still be visible in sunlight

    October 26, 2011 at 1:00 am #33795

    Good job on the video jack. The 4 inch rubber block is my favourite too. :weights

    October 23, 2011 at 10:18 pm #33750

    [quote=”ding” post=23203][quote=”smooth” post=23199]i dont paint cars with moulding and door handles in them, i did the hyundai not the 300. There is no compairson between the two guns. The sata is king for clear.[/quote]
    Well who painted the 300 then and why did they upload the photos onto your account :whistle:[/quote]

    Im not a one man show, the 300 was done by a co-worker of mine thurs and friday and i did the hyundai. I just took the pics

    October 23, 2011 at 7:44 pm #33743

    i dont paint cars with moulding and door handles in them, i did the hyundai not the 300. There is no compairson between the two guns. The sata is king for clear.

    October 23, 2011 at 3:13 pm #33737

    Is the plastic bumper primed? if so there is no need to apply ad. pro. just lightly sand with 800 or equivlant and apply sealer with a flexable additive/base/clear.
    If the plastic bumper is just bare plastic it will need to be first cleaned with a plastic cleaner to remove any release agent from the mould it was made in. Sand the bumper with 800 or equilvant than apply a light coat of adhesion promoter,no need to sand it just let flash for 10 mins apply a sealer with flex add/base/clear
    :weights

    October 22, 2011 at 8:59 pm #33715

    good job. I have a running board to fit the drivers side :cheer:

Viewing 15 posts - 601 through 615 (of 721 total)