Stone
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[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]coming fast …Cruise will be June 5th 2010 .. so get it polished up, and come to 3Hills and strut your stuff :welc ….http://www.timl.com/sf/%5B/quote%5Dbump :whistle: http://www.timl.com/sf/ :welc
[b]bobwires wrote:[/b]
[quote]not much luck so far on that site, except for the real common stuff like fenders…I’m told by a friend that there are lots of these old subaru’s in eastern Washington. Anybody out in that area? or Oregon?[/quote]
thanks for the update bro B)
don’t have a sun gun here but found that a good flashlight will work 😉
:stoned Am I having Deja vu :smoke B) does sound like an earlier thread ….. works work Jinx .. just don’t get hurt 😉
:hunt :evil2 :cheers
yah yah don’t need the paste just don’t go too coarse :pcorn:
check out the dodge box side … not only no filler, no paint …with practice http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=56027&l=3d7c7&id=565177326 it can be done :pcorn:
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/recent-posts/auto-body-repair/the-4-hr-dent.html
modeling generally comes from wet and dry spots while spraying the base …. the wetter spots being darker,.. so not too wet, and as even as possible. but not too dry either 😛 :pcorn: B)
[b]maritimesbob wrote:[/b]
[quote]Some good information thank you. Already learned a lot in the last hour.So do most base and clears require an activator too or just reducer? I would be painting in a shop which would be around 20C/68F.
Wow, those data sheets are an enormous help.[/quote]
just googled them 😉 :pcorn:
:welc
check the TDS (technical data sheet) for your max flash time …. what primer are you talking about ? :welc
example > http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/mspds.pdf
B)
and as mentioned here before … the deeper the clear including orientation coat the darker it will go even the unpainted portion … “like the darker/deeper end of a swimming pool seen from the air” :pcorn: