Stone

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Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 821 total)
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  • November 8, 2010 at 4:37 am #25038

    sweet :rock

    November 6, 2010 at 11:52 pm #25010

    yah I was thinking of that Jay … we dealt with them some in the past :rock

    November 6, 2010 at 10:33 pm #25008

    well … looks like they can come load this limco bs up and get it to hell out of my shop …. useless *** …. color is so far off I couldn’t paint a complete with it. What a *** joke :rofl looking for some diamont tinters if someone can help … bc 171 & bc 175 :deadhorse

    November 6, 2010 at 3:31 am #24994

    bet you get a better match this time bondo …. you musta had crappy paint last time you did it :whistle: :clappy

    November 6, 2010 at 12:37 am #24978

    try the dc98 I think you’ll like it for bigger jobs :pcorn:

    November 5, 2010 at 7:35 am #24954

    :pcorn: accepted 😉 :stoned

    when I got into this … I thought I could make a difference …. perhaps, I may already find my self in the way :chair

    November 5, 2010 at 6:12 am #24947

    I suppose cause jays got the best products …. end of story , so competitions over …. what jay use’s win,s ….. give me a break bro and get off your high horse :deadhorse … love yah but had to be said …… not everyone has a silverspoon up their ass :dnc suck it up suzzie … I’m VOC compliant :rock water sucks :hunt

    November 5, 2010 at 4:24 am #24942

    used RM clear for years … little to no advantage so use cheaper clear now and spend the money making it look good :unsure: dc98 holds out real nice, but can’t recoat or buff for 2 days, bite the bullet, use a quicky, and buff it out. :kofee

    ps. I think all the clear comes from one place and the differences are minimal :kofee

    October 31, 2010 at 9:46 pm #24836

    nope seems fine here too :unsure:

    October 29, 2010 at 4:53 am #24766

    oh … hell just grab a spray bomb of DTM engine paint and shoot it … it’s an engine block :pcorn:

    October 29, 2010 at 4:49 am #24765

    [quote=”Jinx” post=14955]that’s a good idea… so make some kind of track in the wall that would duct the air being pulled from the fan to each opening along the base board? Kind of like the heaters in a house work? But reversed of course.

    Trying to visually think of how the suction would work inside the walls with the all studs being in the way???

    The only way I can think of is to run it along the top where crown moulding would go and drop down surfaced mounted ducting to the floor with wide openings.

    Got better idea’s?[/quote]

    cool , … got yah thinkin :dnc

    October 29, 2010 at 4:45 am #24764

    [quote=”Ben” post=14960]Well, I did a bunch of blackout tape on a 2010 Civic today. I used a soapy water solution and rather than hosing it on, I put just enough on to make it slick. Put the tape on and used the squegee to remove all bubbles, then let it sit for about 10 minutes and dry. Then I went and put some heat to the edges to get them over. It needed more heat than I would normally do, but it worked well. They turned out great and the boss was very impressed (which is not good, since I will likely have to do many more then).

    I had some scrap tape laying around so I practiced with it dry and with different liquids (water, soapy water, glass cleaner and alcohol) beforehand.

    Thanks everyone for your input. Hopefully they all turn out this well. :clappy[/quote]

    yup that’s how ive done them …. don’t get in a hurry , apply with soap/water to the largest flat surface and walk away …. come back later and carefully heat gun your edges/wraps :pcorn:

    October 28, 2010 at 5:30 pm #24753

    down low through the base board area of the walls :unsure:

    October 27, 2010 at 11:11 pm #24744

    I vote double swing doors and put the fan/suck in the floor (duct it, fan is really out side) :dnc

    October 27, 2010 at 4:56 am #24717

    yup :stoned

Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 821 total)