David Clark
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Looks Good Nex! What do the neighbors think of all that back yard body work going down! :lol1
In my opinion, you should ask yourself how much painting you will be doing in the future. If its a fair amount I would look at getting a gun. If not…I would try to use a friends gun to spray your bumper.
As far as getting the color to match… I would take the car down to the store you are getting you paint from and match it up with one of their color chips. I dont like to go by VIN. Its not a garuntee that its a match. I have never had any problems with this color, most cases it looks black and alot of the times people dont even know there is some pearl in it. 😉I have never sprayed AWX but what I have heard is that you HAVE to make sure that you get all the water flashed out before clearing. If you think its dry enough to clear over wait a bit longer. Other wise the clear will come off in sheets before the car will even leave the shop. Also, you need plenty of air flow, alot more than you need for solvent.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]but….. it takes a real painter ta make it work 😛 😛 :P[/quote]That stuff can sure test my patients at times :blush:
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]I would deffinatly go with a base clear. As far as what brand to go with? Go with the brand that is easiest to get in your area and the best service. I have heard good things and bad about sherwins water. :wak I have never sprayed it, I just use the solvent line.[/quote]
all this talk about sherwin is starting ta turn me on :lol1[/quote]I can beleive it coming form you :rofl It takes a real man to master the sherwin!
I would deffinatly go with a base clear. As far as what brand to go with? Go with the brand that is easiest to get in your area and the best service. I have heard good things and bad about sherwins water. :wak I have never sprayed it, I just use the solvent line.
I was at an I-Car class the other day and the instuctor told us that the roof on the ZR1 corvette is carbon fiber. If that pannel has a scratch in it it has to be replaced due to the fact that it can not be buffed. It has a protective UV coating on it that cost $60000.00 a gallon! Sounds crazy to me!
I bought a box of DeKups for home because of the price. I ran out and spent the extra money (which is not much more) on the PPS. DeKups are ok but 3m cups are far better.
Thanks for the tip ODG! How much reducer do you sub for the RFH?
Yep, using solvent. Im using PN. RFH75 and sometimes 85. (Med and slow). I use a sata 3000 HVLP. I have never tried an RP for base as I dont have one. I set my gun at about 2-2.5 turns out fluid and about 20-25 psi. I have also found that if I use a very slow stabilizer such as tropical(90-110 deg) I get better results. I am spraying in a nice spraybake that has very little air flow (bad grate design). I think that has something to do with my integrated stabilizers drying too slow and giving me fits with die back. As far as why I get more mottle with them? Not sure. :wak
I seem to struggle with the new stabilizers. First off, if I have to nib any dirt out of the base before clear it takes forever to flash. Second, I think the integrated skims over on the surface leaving the bottom wet wich leads to die back and slower flash time. Third, I get more mottle with it. I know that goes against what everyone else says about it. I just sprayed a gold Honda with it, it mottled like crazy, went back and remixed with the old stuff and had good luck. Sounds crazy but the old stuff works better for me. Only prob…My rep wont sell it to us due to our wananty. 👿
When using sherwin Ultra 7000 line, you dont have to use hardner in the base. It uses a intagrated stablizer. Every step through is flexed, I pesonaly dont like hardner in the base due to the fact of how much slower it makes it dry.
I have been painting for about ten years now. 5 years ago or so I could get real close to turning 200% efficiency. NOT ANY MORE! I have seen the ins. companys cut paint time majorly around here. We as a shop have to be loosing money on some jobs that we do due to the fact that the labor is cut so low which in turn makes the material rate low. Now in the body shop….thats a different story. I see the repair times are going up. I have seen entry level techs come in and hit 200% quite often in the body shop.
As far as baning to gether with other shops, I think that is illegal? I think its called price fixing? Yes we do need to raise the rates, Yes the ins. companys are running the show. Thats the damage of the DRP! Something needs to change, how we can do it? Im not sure. 😛
That is an adapter for 3M PPS cups. Not sure what to tell you about the nozzle size. I have never used an older RP.
:welc :pcorn: