David Clark
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New stabilizers are RHF65,75,85. Pre catalized. Replaced the BCS605,608,610 non catalized. I personaly dont like the RFH line. I too get more mottle than I think I should. I have better luck using a slower reducer. I usally spray with a sata hvlp and go about 2.5-3 turns out.
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote] This is how an apprenticeship should be,the journeyman mentoring the younger guys so they can be successful in the future.In today’s repair shops there is too much importance placed in numbers and production that a proper high quality repair is sometimes forgotten.I don’t mind teaching apprentices and I have produced a few “good” journeyman in my career.But I don’t think the “team” system is a good idea for anybody.[/quote]Hey Jason, could you share your thoughts on why you think a team system is no good?
I have mixed feeling about it, but at the moment I am teamed up with another painter it its working really well for us.I ran 60 foot of copper in my garage. Its 3/4 and found it to be a walk in the park to solder. You can find a ton of info about piping and air supply from Hub over on the aset website.
Hope you get to the bottom of this Nex! I think youre going about it the right way. Just give it some time and maybe swiching to the FC710 will fix it too! Ya never know :wak
I dont know what to tell you steve 🙁 I have been trying to get a raise for over a year and my boss wont budge. I was told that he could basicaly find anyone off the street to paint for him and for a lot less than I am asking for. I pay my own ins. Get paid for 5 holidays and 10 vacation days a year. I get a fruit basket for a christmas bonus. I get paid by the flag hour and its quite a bit lower than the going pay in my area. Its been extremely slow for us so Im not making squat right now!
[b]Nexson wrote:[/b]
[quote]see im still learning, i thought wet on wet just meant two wet coats no matter the flash time[/quote]Nope, its two coats back to back one right after the other. With the FC710 and med. activator and you being in Florida, I doubt you will have trouble running it w.o.w. Just put the first coat on a little lighter than you would if you were going to let it flash. Then put the second one on about the same as the first coat. Give it a try, if if doesent work just keep doing what you always do. It looks like you have good luck doing what you do, but w.o.w could maybe elimanate the fisheye like craters you are getting.
I would say that if you wet on wet your clear and you still get the craters, its coming from the gun or air source.
[b]Nexson wrote:[/b]
[quote]man that makes nervous! weird to have no flash time.[/quote]In the nine years that I have been a production painter, I dont think I have once let my first coat of clear flash. I only use the wet on wet method. :silly:
Nope, no flash! You wont get pop in an air dry situation with it. If you clear over base that hasnt flashed fully, you can get some die back or maybe some sovlent pop. You will be fine with the wet on wet. 😉
[b]Nexson wrote:[/b]
[quote]I only shot it once and I shot it conservative on a small part, can you get on the clear without running it?[/quote]Yeah, just put your first coat on wet but not heavy wet, make sure its not dry or rough. You can wait 30 seconds to a minute or you can just put the next coat on right after the first. This will be the final coat so put it on like you want it to look. It will take some practice getting to know how heavy to spray the 1st and 2nd coats. I always use wet on wet. It saves time and your first coat of clear is not setting open for contaminates to get between the two.
I wouldnt start using fisheye eliminator yet. That is your last resort.
Hey Nex, I have been using the FC710 with Med activator at home. I have been shooting it wet on wet and have had excelent results. If your comfortable with that method I would recomend it. 😉
Those looked like some pretty nice chairs ya painted up! 😛
Bike parts look good! I like that blue 😉How long are you waiting between coats of clear? Maybe you should w.o.w. the clear?
Doesnt look like solvent pop. I would try using a waterborne cleaner instead of the palm olive. The soap could or couldnt be the problem. If you still get fish eyes without the palm olive then you know its not the soap. I would just go with process of elimination.
Well, the problem I have is that I used to get paid to blend a hood on every job. Latley its not happening. Sometimes I get lucky and it matches, other times its off a little and the adjusters are saying that the only way they will pay to blend is if the customer complains about a miss match. By this time they are mad at the shop, not the insurance company! Its a loose loose for me as a painter and the shop.
:pcorn: Not sure what your getting paid for doing the job but its always a good practice to remove the handles, mirrors and moldings. Is just makes for a cleaner and higher end job. 😉 Its understandable if your buddy didnt want to pay for it. Keep up the good work and it wont take much to get the hang of spraying clear.
I remember when I first started painting, I would be so nervous to clear! Now days its just like tieing my shoes :wak