David Clark
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Thts a good price for that gun with all three caps. Each cap will cost you around $100.00. The 1.4 works better than the 1.3. Buying a new gun is a better option than a cheep used one. You may end up putting so much money into it getting it back it shape you could have just got a new one.
You have to walk a fine line with the adjusters. I feel that you should always get paid to prime. Its not included in the refinsh! It cant be. Do you really think they would pay for it on every job even if the pannel doesnt need it? I dont think so! Every estimate would be manually changed to compensate for it. So every job that gets primed and you dont bill for it is a loss in materials. You most certanly cant bite the hand that feeds you but too many shops fear getting drop kicked by the insurance companys and they know it! They have been slowly taking advantage of shops for years due to fear! These conpanys are at our shops because their customer had an accident that they are paying for. The insurance company wants to spend as little as possible to get the repair done. On one hand they do bring us work but on the other hand they are wanting it cheaper and cheaper, faster and faster all the time. 😛 Think about this… If Progessive could save .5 hour refinsh on every car that has a claim on it, over the couse of a year will add up to some major savings! The next year they will try to save 1 hour. And it goes on and on and we do nothing about it because of fear of getting dropped.
From what i can see in the pictures, you need to use an alternate with a lighter side tone. If it is sherwin ultra 7000 base coat you can add up to 10% of U7271 flatner to it. That will help lighten the side tone. Check to see if there other alt. available first though.
The mottling could come from several factors. It could be spray technique, gun choice, color alt. choice. Some of sherwin base colors are a real pain 👿 Are you a beg. painter? This toyota silver is not the greatest to learn with or any silver for that matter. I would respray the quarter and if you can reblend the door. If not I would go into the front door of fender what ever is the ajacent pannel. Give yourself plenty of room. Also, you should do a low pressure mist coat to make sure the base goes on nice and even and make sure your color match is as close as possible before starting over. Good Luck :silly:
Just reprime your break throughs then prep it for paint again. The sealer should be used as a wet on wet. Apply the sealer, let it flash, then base and clear.
300 hour week? Is that just you your self or is that combined with another painter?
In the nine years that I have worked at the dealer Im at, I have been told month after month year after year that the shop only breaks even or looses money. Either somebody is making more money than they let on to or they have been doing something wrong for a long time. I do feel that dealership body shops are a dumping ground or just a tax write off.
Sounds like good ol greed to me. The dealership realized that there was more money out there to be made and they want it. They cant have someone making more money than the sales dept. Dealerships dont care about body shops. Their meat and potatoes comes from new and used car sales. If they make extra money from a body shop than they are happy, if not no big deal. Its not the bussiness they are into. Most of the time the owners dont care about anyone but them selves. Sorry for the rant, its just my opinion 😛 I do paint at a GM dealer too :wak
Mocoke won that tekna off this very site! He better love that thing 😉 Im sure it works well for him. I would have loved to win it just to have it even though it most likely wouldnt be my go to gun. Im glad that it went to a guy that realy likes it. 😛
[b]Papipab wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well the office personal at the shop haven’t notice some of my cloudy Iwata jobs even with me pointing it out. But I don’t want to question the experience of the painters on this site that have been painting longer than I have.I think there has to be something I’m doing wrong because I have spray some flawless metallics with the lvx but it takes me some work.By the way my jobber work today and brought me the ws400 clear but what number is the 3m pps number for them is it the same as the lph400[/quote]
I doubt you are doing something wrong if you are getting good results with the Sata. Im sure the Iwata LVX could be a great gun in the hands of the right person but its A gun that takes more work and patients than the sata. I just dont have the finness to get a perfect job out of it every time.
I too have experienced the cloudyness with the LVX. I use sherwin williams and my Sata NR2000 lays met. great. I love the Iwata for clear but I dont think met is its strong point. I can get pretty good results with the LVB cap but it tends to stripe on me. It seems like its a very finiky air cap. I have used both the 1.3 and 1.4 with the LVX cap and its still slightly coudy. I think some painters are more picky than others on how their jobs look. I think that guys that rave about the LVX are the ones who let the cloudy jobs go out the door. Just my opinion 😛
I have a CVI :blush: Its is kinda sporty. I just couldnt come to terms with that gun. It has a small spray pattern for my liking and for a 1.3 ITS A HOSER! I love the way it feels and how light it is but I have never gotten more runs in my life then what I did with that thing 👿
Isn’t the GTI Pro the same thing as the 670 Plus Gun?
Hub said caps are available for theses guns.
I just asked Hub over at ASET this exact question. I will post back when I get a reply from him. 😉 I would also like to know how this gun sprays compaired to the LVX and LVB.