David Clark
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[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldn’t waste my time with hs+lv ,we used it at the training center and we weren’t that impressed with it.I’ll second Bob’s comments about hs+ very good user friendly clear with a nice look to it.
.[/quote]Not too sure what the hs+lv means. Is that the auto clear 3? The reason I ask about the sikkens products is because I might change jobs and they spray sikkens. After the first of the year they will be going water but I dont know how soon. So, in the mean time it will be solvent. I will be mostly spraying in a semi down draft with infra-red light for cooking it off. I do know I will have to use the auto clear 3 for a while and just want to know what to expect. Is it an overall? can it be made faster with other harndners or additives? What does it spray like? Thanks
Man Andy! That sounds like quite the operation! Hope it pays well 😉 I can see how you could do that many jobs if each one is ready to go one right after the other. I think I have seen pictures of your booth and oven over on ASET. I think I would be lost doing that kind of work. I just paint collision work, only 2 to 3 a day. Sounds like you have ol spraytech beat at this speed thing! 😉
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]In between each job? You must be joking 😛 I’m painting anything up 18-20 jobs a day, so I barely get chance to open and close the doors, never mind clean up, lol.What kind of a shop do you work at? And how many hours a day do you work? Thats a lot of cars!
I think thats my problem. I used to do a lot more combo work. We had new management come in and now I paint only. I think the money is on the body side not so much the paint. 👿
Yeah sherwin warrantied a job for us once. I think it was for a color issuse though. I would just be worried about something going wrong when using diffenent MFGs. If it did happen you wouldnt have a leg to stand on. They should pay for anything that goes wrong. That was part of our contract though.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote] I still don’t really like their clears. They are supposed to be bringing in a Nexa clear for me to try.[/quote]So are a lot of guys using one companies base coats and another companies clears on jobs? How does that effect your warranty?
Im just the painter at a dealership in a town of about 40,000 with 4 other shops comparable to us. We have been slower this year than what we were last year. Im down about $12,000 YTD in commission compared to last year. 👿
The Iwata LVX would be a great choice if you are wanting a gun that use can use for both base and clear. Then later on you can get the specialized caps if needed. Go for the 1.4 tip.
I hit up my rep about the delam thing that I have herd about on here. He said that it will happen if you dont give enough flash time between base and clear. Its the guys that are pushing it too much. You cannot abuse the sherwin water like you can the solvent.Whats funny though is that he said out of all the paint mfgs out there, dupont was not too great.
I have found that spraying the outside first works really well. Just drop your maksing tape about 1/4″ in or to the first lip so you get base and clear on it. Then go back after the car is sprayed and do the jamb. I use the new transition tape and lay it down with the sticky stuff right on the edge of the quarter. Make sure the edge of the tape hangs ofer just a smidge. Spray the jamb and when its dry if needed hit the edge lightly with 3000 then polish. It will be a seamless transition. The 3m tape works great!
I wouldnt reduce it anymore than 10% Also, you may get better results with a high end clear. I would say that if you sand all the peel out nice and smooth then reclear you will get a much flatter look. To be honest though, you will save money in the long run to use a high end clear and put 3 good coats on then cut and buff rather than doing the job twice.
Well, there are a lot of good guns out there however they get pricey. I have used a sata NR2000 for a long time and it has been a great gun. Right now I am using an Iwata LPH400 with chrome and purple caps. I have always used HVLP guns. I did buy a Devilbiss CVI (its a compliant gun) and I dont care much for it. A lot of guys like the Sata RP. Its a good clear gun. I would personaly go with the Iwata or Sata NR3000 but thats just me. If you are serious about a painting you should spend a little more on a gun. It will be well worth it in the long run. 😉
Ive got to say man, Im jealous! Thats the exact same idea I have had in my head for sometime now. I just havent had the money to buy the wall. Thats an awesome set up!
The 30 minute air dry clear would be CC931. Very good stuff. It mixes 3:1:1 using UH904 hardner and your choice of US2,3,4 reducers. I use it almost every day and most of the time I use US4 reducer in it so it flows a little better. The HPC15 is also very good stuff. Its very fast and looks great. You can mix it two different ways. 5:1:1 of 4:1:1. 5:1:1 being fastest. You can get a great finish using 4:1:1 with the US4 in it also. However, it does slow it down a bit but not much. Film build will also slow it down a bit too. This Clear uses a differnt hardner than the CC931. It uses UH80. Hope this helps!
Check auto body tool mart. They have the exaust walls you are talking about.