David Clark
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I sprayed it for about two years and never had any problems. I have always been good about letting my base flash real good before clearing. Never had anything come back that was died back. It’s very fast and works well for small get em out the door jobs. I miss spraying that stuff!
I always hate to see someone loose their job but you are over staffed in the paint shop. Two guys can get all the work done you need. Make them prime prep mask paint and buff. You can make then a team or put them on their own. I would bet money on it that if you put them on commission they will be productive. I guess if they don’t like it there is always somebody that will. If you really need to you can have two full time painters plus one extra guy to take up the slack.
Well said Mocoke
[quote=”ding” post=24856][quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=24855]I don’t usually give pro advice to beginners but your passion for having an edge on the rest of the painters out there has made me re think. So here goes, I have the best tool for laying glass clear coat. It’s called a dewalt. You should go down to you local paint supplier an tell them you need one. You will know it when you see it. It’s yellow. That’s the best know secret for a glass like job! Hope this helps![/quote]
Sorry underpaid, but Ryan is trying to help the kid out here. no need for your sarcastic smart ass post. Not to mention, your dewalt is heavy and archaic compared to the blue makita[/quote]
Are you kidding me? Out of all the “smart ass” comments on here and I’m the first to get called on it? And how dare you insult my heavy old dewalt.I don’t usually give pro advice to beginners but your passion for having an edge on the rest of the painters out there has made me re think. So here goes, I have the best tool for laying glass clear coat. It’s called a dewalt. You should go down to you local paint supplier an tell them you need one. You will know it when you see it. It’s yellow. That’s the best know secret for a glass like job! Hope this helps!
I have used it some. It works good. The key to using it is to really run it in good to get the pin holes filled. I think it works way better than smearing kombi. One problem with it though is the applicator sponges don’t last long.
Ok so is the pro air LV available in the us? If so is there a price difference in the two? If there is we should just go with pro air lv and save some money because energy pro is kinda pricey.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=24733][quote=”bgiordano1976″ post=24731]It is definitely not the easiest clear to spray. You really have to haul-ass with it, and plan your attack. I agree with you on that Underpaid. I also agree with you that is definitely not junk. I watched 5 guys from LKQ (who have never held a paint gun in their hands before) spray Superior at the Akzo training center, and they made it look like they were seasoned professionals! Not too many guys can pull that off with Energy Pro, unless they really know what they are doing… I have even heard some ridiculous stories about guys using Superior hardener with Energy Pro clear. Absolutely NOT recommended, not needed, and completely pointless in regard to what the clear is supposed to be…[/quote]
By who?That info comes from the training center up here absolutely accceptible.Energypro is not hard to spray,the only thing to remember is no waiting between coats.If you want to save yourself some money get some lesonal proair LV,it is relabeled energypro.Like I said if you guys like it and it’s working for you great,it doesn’t work for us,superior just works and looks better,plus it is more chip resistant…[/quote]
Is there a difference in pro air lv and pro air? We use to use pro air then switched to energy pro. They are not the same clear at all. Not even close.I am still spraying ABP so I dont get to use superior. I would love to try it out and see what it can do. For now thuough I am using Energy pro and HS+. Energy pro is not that bad, It can be tricky to spray though. Some jobs it looks great, looks deep and holds a great gloss. Other times it hard to get it to lay down. I have most definaly sprayed other clears that are alot easier to spray but the energy pro gets the job done. I woulnt say its junk though. 😉
There are a lot of factors envolved here. I have never used the nova hybrid. I usually do two medium to wet coats. It’s just something you will have to practice and play with. I’m sure you have a good gun there and if you are using a decent clear you will soon be getting great results.
Ok thanks guys. Does the drop in motor require a bearing change or is it a complete assembly?
Yep! I know what youre talking about. I have been using cbp for about a year now after using sherwin for almost ten years. Color build is ok but not the best primer out there. I have better luck using a smaller nozzle and going light with my coats. It seems to be a good primer in the summer but cold temps dont do this primer any justice.
[quote=”Idunnit” post=23609]I am spraying Sikkens solvent and when I looked it up it only shows it as being a normal base clear. Did a sprayout today when I jambed out the hood and the color looked good, but it didnt have the pop or depth that a tri stage would have, so what do I need to do, add some base to my clear? I might call the help desk in the morning and see what they say as well. The last two jobs in the shop were the same color but they were blended out as normal and looked fine, didnt tint the clear or anything.
Chuck[/quote]
I wouldnt put any base in your clear. It may be a tri coat. I have sanded alot of those colors and they do come off red. Some paint mfgs may do it in a tri but sikkens may have it close enough with a two coat.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=23508]I feel the same way about the CVI. The Tekna is good for clear but I would pick the Iwata or Sata above it. If you really like the Supernova I wouldn’t let under a hundred bucks sway you.
Do you need a cup with the Nova Underpaid? If not you can get it for $535 here
http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LS400%5B/quote%5DWow thats a good price! No I dont need cup. Have you ever ordered from coastairbrush? Do they have a good rep?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=23503]No kidding UPP,Iwata is more money than a sata in my area also,kinda funny that everyone says Iwata is cheaper :lol1 :lol1 You can’t go wrong with a sata in my book I think they are made tougher also.Just throwing this out there but have you tried a tekna with a 7e7 cap?I have been very impressed with mine for base,it also does a good job with clear,but it is not as fast as an rp.[/quote]
You know, I have thought about that tekna. I just kinda have a bad taste in my mouth from a CVI I bought a few years ago. That was the biggest waste of money. I bought it after it had so many rave reviews on an other forum. The same one that say there is nothing better than a PLUS GUN! That quick clean does look sweet though.