David Clark
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Thats good to hear Ben! I too just switched jobs. Its been a good move for me. Im now doing combo work. Hope everything works out well for you. The GMs are what Im use to working on. I think you will like em better than chryslers:dnc
I just left a dealership that I worked at for 10 years. Its the same way everywhere. I was one of two painters. We only had 2 bodymen and theres no way they could keep 2 painters busy. For some reason they always had to have 2 painters at all times, but never thought they need 3 body guys. IMO, you should ask you boss if you can be a full time painter and use the other prepper to help the both of you guys. It should be a team. Both painters should get the same hourly rate and both should pay a % to the prepper and the shop should pay the rest of his wage. So lets say you get 18.00 per refinish hour, the 3.00 should come from you and 3.00 should come from the other painter and 4.00 should come from the shop.
I would make sure to push the feather edge prime and block on that job. The cost of primer ads up fast. As far as the overlap…its probably right. Sometimes they try to get me on bumper covers. I dont think there should be any overlap on a bumper or any part that has to be painted off the car.
At the place i use to work at we had a gen 4 spraybake. I used it from the time it was new. That was 8 years ago to present. Its was a good booth but it didnt flow that great. Bad thing is spraybake is no longer, that means no parts. My new job, we have an autobody toolmart booth. Its works as well as it was priced at. Flow is decent.
You cant go wrong with PPS
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=16801]geuss ya better change ur avatar:wak :wak :wak fuking traitor wait till i tell all the guys at the training center:chair :chair :chair :chair ;)[/quote]
Im leaving my avatar just for you Bondo! You go right down to the training center and tell them that they have sikkens beat when it comes to primer, clear, and Formula Express. But they need to work on the base coat 😉 Dont get me wrong, I still miss my Sherwin! (I know im sick!):roflThanks Ben! Its also hard getting used to a semi down draft booth with no heat. Ive always had the luxury of a downdraft with heat and bake. I am amazed at how fast sikkens base coat flashes off. That makes it nice in a cross flow or semi down.
Just a little update on things. Im getting use to “Sikkens” more and more. Still not happy with the speed of the primer, but I love the base coat coverage. Im getting the Pro Air clear figured out. I have been leaving the reducer out and it looks much better and holds a good gloss. I have been using a CVI and an LPH 400. I get better results with the LPH but the CVI is not bad. The mixing scale is the older version so its a bit of a pain sometimes. But overall its getting better.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=16340]Are you for real??No sh!t sikkens is going to be slower with no heat that is a no brainer :clappy Before we had a bake booth we would do 5-8 jobs a day with ACIII in a homemade down draft with no bake cycle,so I call BS on that one too.[/quote]
Hey man, thats just what they told me. They still have some AC3 sitting on the shelf. I would like to use it but I dont know anything about it. What clear would you recomend me using over autobase plus and spraying in a cross draft booth with no bake cycle other than a propane heater.Yes the propane heater scares me too! A new shop expansion is in the works and the booth will be getting heat and bake cycle added. They were using auto clear3 but kept having problem due to no bake cycle. Its usally about 70 -80 in the booth from shop heat but the Pro air even with fast hardner and fast reducer wont drie fast enough. The shop does quite a bit of work and needs to paint 2 to 3 cars a day. With out the heat that cant be done. I have been spraying sherwin for the last 10 years and its hard to beat the speed of it. IMO, HPC15 hands down outperforms the Pro Air by along shot. As soon as we get heat on the booth we will get away from the Pro Air.
Jayson and Ryan, Its Colorbuild Plus that we are using, I sprayed some stuff today and better luck with the base going down. Also, I mixed my clear using a 50-50 mix of fast and slow hardner and used medium reducer at 10% It looked alot better. Im just hoping it will look as good tomorrow. I know this is going to sound crazy but there is no heat on this booth. They use a propane heater to heat it and after its painted it goes back in. As soon as the heater goes in they shut the booth off. Could lack of air movement and the heat on this clear cause the die back? This stuff is all new to me, Im used to spraying in a 6yr old downdraft spaybake.
Im the same way! I just changed jobs and the place is a pig pen. I kept the place I used to work at very clean. I get real stressed when there is trash and junk parts laying around. I find myself picking up the trash and crap throughout the day.
That looks like the shop Im at now!:rofl
Ok guys, on monday I will check to see if its color build pus. Im just not sure. I wish I new the PNs and names of the system better. I have only been there 3 days. As far as looking up a color,…I go to a box next to the scale, I have to put in the make of the vehicle then the code. It wants the year and color group but I just skip that. Then I go to APB and it tells me the what variants there are and it says something lik PRO and a number like 003. So now I have to go to a cabinet on the wall full of the chips with rings. There is a piece of paper taped to it. This is where I have to find the 003. This will then tell me what deck to look in. Thanks for all the help so far. Im sure I will have alot more questions for you guys as you seem very knowlegeable with the system.
So far I have been mixing the base 50%. It seems to go on rougher than I would like. I might reduce it down to 80 and see what that does. As far as the color scala, its just different than what Im use to. I just think its strange that the computer gives you a number that you have to go look up on a paper then that paper tells you what deck to use. The few colors I have looked at are scratched up and hard to see. The primer take quite a bit longer to fully drie than sherwin. With sherwin its done in 45 min or 10 with a lamp. Sikkens just takes longer. Im just going to have to just adjusted with it. The other painter there says he has alot of trouble with it shrinking back. I havent noticed it yet but I think I finish my filler out finer than he does too. We are just using the scale to mix on, no PC? Im not sure how to find underhood colors or tu tones and things like that.